Knucklehead oiling system

[asavolai]

Hello,
I'm building my first knucklehead engine from pile of parts, and I would like to get all the trick and tips that is needed to get a good runner.
Now I would like to know if the original oil circulation system is perfect or should there be some modifications done?
For example, my ULH I made a groove for pinion shaft bushing to allow oil go all the time to the crank pin. Seems like it was a good improvement. Is that good with knuckle as well?
How about governor system which by passes oil to gear case when engine has slow rpm's. To use it or not?
Breather gear, is original hole for vacuum enough, or should there be S&S type where's rather long hole instead of round one (longer time for vacuum to pushrod tubes)?
In my valve covers there's not small holes for get air sucked -> should I drill? Size and position?
Type of push rod tube seals? Cork or silicon?
Anything else?

Maybe there's FAQ somewhere, I didn't find it...

Thank you,
Antti

[Rollo]

Antti,

I assume you are overseas by you moniker. If not I apologize in advance. There are many good motor builders out there who can offer advice but for me I would call Paul Freibus at American Cycle Fab in Bloomsburg PA. He has created many improvements in the oiling systems in HD engines especially BTSV, Knuckle and Pan motors. Nothing is visible from the outside but all are internal so no judging or cosmetic issues but vastly improved oiling and especially on the return circuit so return is better. Paul has made R&D of early motors and specifically the oiling systems a priority and has proven it in his Bonneville Flat Head records set.

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[1950Panhead]

For example, my ULH I made a groove for pinion shaft bushing to allow oil go all the time to the crank pin.

Seems like it was a good improvement. Is that good with knuckle as well?

What were you trying to achive?
The factory made the slot in the bushing the length they wanted it.
When you increase the slot width the oil volume to the rod bearings increase and the oil flung onto the cylinder wall increases.
Neither is needed and can cause oil burning when rings wear.

How about governor system which by passes oil to gear case when engine has slow rpm's. To use it or not?

The factory was trying to regulate oil flow that was required.
Increasing oil flow does nothing beneficial and can result in oil burning which thefactory was trying to avoid.

Breather gear, is original hole for vacuum enough

Original is fine.

In my valve covers there's not small holes for get air sucked -> should I drill? Size and position?

I have seven sets of spare covers, none have holes but I have seen them.
Perhaps the holes were only used some years, I don't know.

Type of push rod tube seals? Cork or silicon?

Either is fine.

Anything else?

If you are trying to get more power from the engine then original then some modifications may be beneficial, otherwise not.

[asavolai]

Thank you,
Yes I live in Finland.
I think my ULH is running cooler as there's more oil splashing to cylinder walls. But it's hard to verify accurately.
Looks like it's better to keep pumps etc. in stock,
Antti

[Rollo]

Antti,

I still recommend a call to Paul to talk to him about all this. He will tell you what works and what doesn't. Like I said he has done tons of R&D and testing on this subject and he is willing to help those who listen. www.americancyclefab.com or 570-752-8715 best to call as he doesn't answer email very much. You can listen and either accept or reject what he tells you. Your choice but at least you will have the benefit of his input and more information isn't a bad thing. Good luck with it!

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA#12766