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I am having a problem getting my retard control to work on the 37 knuck. When I take it apart and put it back together it will push the arm out but will not retract it. I have replaced the wire , made sure the dist head turns nicely, and everything is well lubed. I have tried assembling it both ways and it always moves it the one way or the other and then that is it , no more movement. help.
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Sometimes on repop cables the upper end comes off of the outer housing and leaves you with no movement.
Jerry -
It's not repop
It's not repop but I did not check that part of the equation. ThanksOriginally posted by Jerry Wieland View PostComment
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I cannot imagine if you have both ends fastened securely that it will not move the way it was designed.
JerryComment
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Check your set screw in the handlebar that goes into the outer spiral.
CarlComment
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I had a similar problem on my 47. Turned out to be a notch partway down the spiral. I could turn it until the roller would catch, then, no go ! Drove me nuts figuring that one out. Turns out it was the last place I looked ...Comment
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Thanks Carl, the upper end is definitely loose but I can't find the set screw or the hole for it. I took the dimmer switch off and scraped the paint but can't locate it . These are the low rise '37 bars that are stock for this bike. any ideas ?Comment
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Howdy sir,
Assuming your set screw is actually nested within the groove rather that on either side allowing free movement of the control wire sleeve on the side open, keep in mind the sweep of your grip/spiral through complete range of motion exceeds the advance/retard sweep range at the distributor. Therefore, if you've got any snags in your spiral you can experiment by tightening your control wire at the distributor in various grip rotational positions till you find one with the sweetest effort. Oddly, some will lock if you attempt to tighten the control wire at the distributor at full lock on either position at the grip.
One thing, actually the only thing with a Knuckle distributor, I find annoying is the tension clip on the underside exerts a bit too much pressure on mating surfaces that need to slide over each other. Smoothing off those helped with binding issues I had previously thought more associated with spiral machined surfaces.Comment
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Mine are on the bottom side of the bars and sometimes under the dimmer switch. It is tiny so be careful.
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA # 12766Comment
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PRG. Your tips proved to be invaluable. Particularly, the one regarding spiral full lock. I also pulled the spring and applied a little grease. Still notchie, but works ! Hopefully , the other fellow had good luck as well. Daytona or bust !Comment
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Howdy chop sickle,
And I'm assuming that's the AMCA event at the horse barn and your 47 will be in attendance? I'll be at Rocky's on a cruiser green 41FL hoping to have a far less eventful Bike Week this year than last. Would not recommend anyone attempt riding lights on in heavy Bike Week traffic with a fried shunt coil. Took care of that this year with this conversion which entailed revisiting the spiral thing as I also went from Flanders to Tom Fabors superb Hollywoods and his own grips/spirals.Comment
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THANKS ALL. The set screw hole was under the horn button on this early set of bars and no there wasn't a set screw in it. Happy to report that the advance/retard works smoothly and fully now. Again thank you for the advice , especially the part about having the set screw in between the groove on the spool. It required a bit of pushing to get it that far down the handlebar .
FRED DComment
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