restoring a springers rear legs

[creep]

Hello Friends,
I'm looking for some experienced advice. On rewelding the
rear legs on a springer.
I have some good Ideas But I would like to see what you
folks have done in the past. Since we have a lot of
experience on this site. You might as well ask some questions
first.
Thanks
creep

[AdminGuy]

Yup - that's OK. For the benefit of others I'll ask if you can be more specific. Go ahead. Be long winded. How bad is it?

Paul -- a.k.a; psycho-sikle-slider

[creep]

cut up

Well Sir
It seems as if someone started to extend this front end.
They cut it off right at the bottom flange of the triple tree
casting.
I was planning on taking a larger tube and hammering it
oval to fit up inside the upper section. Then having it
extend down as long as I can inside the leg section.
Then either drilling and welding some 1/2 inch pins.
Or just plug welding it. As the main seem goes, I thought
I would just braze this joint to close it for a stock looking
seem.
How ever I always Like to see what other folks have done.
I don't claim to know it all. Just enough to be dangerous.
Creep

[AdminGuy]

Hopefully someone with much more experience than I will jump in here.
First off...YIKES!!! major structural support issues at stake here. You don't want some weak work hurting someone in the future.

I know nothing, and stand firmly with that statement.

For inner support I'd personally try rolling one piece to check fit. Torch it, Roll it, flip it, roll it, etc. See what shape you get dependent upon wall thickness. Maybe a foot long piece. Second inner support test, I'd roll it a bit then cut one side of tube vertically (relief), then roll it some more. Or stick it in a hydrolic press and work it along with a precut stop/guage in place. This I feel would give you a more uniform oval shape, in contrast to "Mr. Sledge Hammer".

You could go to a sheet metal shop and ask them to squish it to the stops for you.

I'd probably just pre-drill 1/4" holes and crank up the current on a MIG. If you get good penitration I don't think you'd need to pin it (I think you pin when you braze). I'd MIG the seam also. Take it down with a file and touch it up again. Not a big fan of braze.

I'm certain Mr./Mrs. Fancy welder would do a perfect tube weld around the seam. Maybe without any insert?

Now with that said. Hopefully someone that accually knows what their talking about will jump in here.

[T. Cotten]

Ford radius rods??

I have only repaired damaged original legs by torch and silver-solder,...but the time-honored method of extending forks was to splice-in Ford radius rods (whatever those are?)
Obviously cutting them to stock length instead of extended is what we are now dealing with.

The advantage is that you will be starting with an oval leg with intrinsic strength, instead of a work-hardened piece that you would really sweat over to fashion accurately.

And yeah, "sweat" is a pun in this case, as you will not want to conventionally weld around any of the original 'spelter' or silver-solder.

[creep]

useing Ford radius rods

I have used this method to extend 3 springers. This was
back in the 70's. And I did use Ford radius rods. Those
springers are still going down the road today. That's why
I think the shorter the fork the less stress will be on it. Thus
the stronger it will be.
Creep

[AdminGuy]

I've thought about this some more. I should have read more carefully.

I think if your that close to the (contamination) you'll have no choice but to braze the forks for repair. Big slow heat. A MIG could crack them, Heat too intense.

I agree with Tom.

May the sharp file be yours!