Clutch disassembly

[duffeycycles]

My thought on the tool was why & if necessary Mark or one of the suppliers would have already made one

[otis71]

I agree. I reassembled mine yesterday I minutes, put it on the bike and it’s working fine.

[Steve Swan]

help me understand why any tool is required to assemble clutch pack for a J-type clutch. i've assembled the ones i work on by hand using no tools other than a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the 6 screws.

[duffeycycles]

Mark,I stole his pic ! He says he & Ray designed it.I have no clue how it works.The FB J/JD page is great.1917-1936 clutch tool 1917-1936 clutch tool Duda.jpg

[MMasa]

Richard Duda recentlyposted on JD FB page,a new tool he is selling to do this job easier

I’d love to see Richard’s clutch tool but don’t have a FB account.
Mark Masa

[Steve Swan]

One other thing; the clutch rod doesn’t pull out. Is it connected on the right side of the transmission or is it maybe a little boogered up and a burr holding it? I hate to try and force it out if secured somewhere. Does anyone market anything representing a shop manual?

The clutch pull rod 2445-26 (12-9/16" long) only comes out one way by removing starter cover cap 2133-26 which is held on by 4 screws on the right side of the transmission.

[Steve Swan]

Steve,I was talking about a clutch pack tool,not the rod

Oops...! and i meant my comment for Otis!

[otis71]

As I suspected the plates were oil soaked.

[duffeycycles]

Steve,I was talking about a clutch pack tool,not the rod

[Steve Swan]

Richard Duda recentlyposted on JD FB page,a new tool he is selling to do this job easier

The clutch pull rod 2445-26 (12-9/16" long) only comes out one way by removing starter cover cap 2133-26 which is held on by 4 screws on the right side of the transmission.

[duffeycycles]

Richard Duda recentlyposted on JD FB page,a new tool he is selling to do this job easier

[otis71]

One other thing; the clutch rod doesn’t pull out. Is it connected on the right side of the transmission or is it maybe a little boogered up and a burr holding it? I hate to try and force it out if secured somewhere. Does anyone market anything representing a shop manual?

[otis71]

You were correct about the 6 screws. I thought I would need to thread a puller into the screw holes. And the nut I mentioned is the left hand mainshaft nut. Thanks

[Tommo]

Here's pictures of both sides of an assembled clutch pack.
I've put a circle of correction fluid around one screw so that when you are adjusting the spring tension you can keep track of where you are. DSCF4418.JPGDSCF4416.JPG

[Tommo]

I presume you mean the 6 spring tensions screws when you say 6 bolts and if that's what you're saying that wasn't a good move.
The nut you've removed once again I presume it is the left hand thread one that holds the clutch pack onto the gearbox main shaft.
The clutch pack has a key and is on a taper so you need to jar the clutch pack free of the taper and this is where the extra weight of all the clutch pack assists you.
Screw the L.H. thread nut onto the main shaft so that the end of the main shaft is flush with the outside edge of the nut.
Support the back of the clutch basket with a long tyre lever or pry bar being careful not to damage the dust excluder disc on the back of the clutch basket and give the end of the main shaft a good sharp hit with a good quality dead blow hammer and the clutch pack should jar free.
I use a modern plastic hammer that is filled with lead shot. Care must be taken so that no damage is done to that LH thread and or the nut.
If a second person is present they can hold a block of wood on the end of the main shaft while you hit it with a standard engineers hammer. Wood tends to absorb some of the shock so you need to be careful using this method as you tend to need to hit it several times and this is when unintended damage can occur.
While you are striking the main shaft you will need to be applying pressure in the opposite direction by pulling on the pry bar hence this is why a second person is needed to hold the bit of wood in place.
Be careful where you place that pry bar but in saying this there is plenty of room in behind there where you can exert pressure and not damage anything.
Putting it all back together is another story.
Hope this helps and it's only how I do it and someone else out there may have a better way of doing it so pipe up fellas and lets hear your way of doing it.