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Schebler Carb Parts and Advice

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  • Schebler Carb Parts and Advice

    Hello,

    I'm working on cleaning and reassembling a Schebler carb from my 1924 JD. The carb is stamped H165 in the area covered by the float bowl. I need to replace the float lever (pivot) both sides, the cork gasket for the float bowl and the compensating air valve (the piece sandwiched between the assembly shown in the pictures). Is there a source for these replacement parts? Also can anyone give some advice on getting the assembly pictured about?

    001.jpg002.jpg

    Steve Slaminko

  • #2
    Steve!

    Common Linkert pivot screws work, and some are even nickel.

    I don't believe it was produced with a gasket, but Tom Fickau produced those, too.
    (Now I lean toward paper.)

    The original airvalve was leather, which is hard to keep fuel-soaked if the machine sits, leading to changes of tuning.
    So many around the world turned to Teflon.
    (I have too much PEEK scrap to ignore.)

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 01-02-2019, 03:13 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

    Comment


    • #3
      Cotton,

      The Linkert pivot screws I have are too big both in slotted head diameter and I think in thread diameter as well. See attached pictures.

      001.jpg003.jpg

      So I guess I'm still back to the question of who, if anyone, supplies parts for a Schebler Model H carb? Also, I don't have an air valve to use as a pattern so it would be a shot in the dark for me to try and make one.

      Any help would be appreciated!

      Steve Slaminko

      Comment


      • #4
        Steve!

        There was only one thread diameter, "-32tpi;

        Mostl 1" Model HX carbs of your vintage that cross my benches have the larger head diameter. The bottom bowl in my attachment is an example (although the cap boss should be level with the deck for HX and Type A DLX..).
        Nearly all 3/4" and 1" models that cross my benches have the smaller diameter head. The top bowl is an example.
        Is your bowl polished and 'bright'-nickel'd, or rough cast and 'pickel'-nickel'd?

        I usually replaced whatever I found with the same. Chuck Myles was making the smaller head (RIP).
        (Lately, I just cut down Colony Linkerts!)

        As I mentioned previously Tom Fickau FickauPrototypes@cs.com is an important supplier of the highest quality hardware.

        ....Cotten
        PS: My pic library only has two HX160s, and it looks like you should cut your Linkerts down!.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by T. Cotten; 01-03-2019, 05:40 PM.
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

        Comment


        • #5
          http://www.competitiondist.com
          http://www.linkertcarbs.com
          try these places

          Comment


          • #6
            I have recently been going under the same issues for my 1920. Its not stamped as to which H series i actually have. It does have H102 on the stem the float bowl slides over. Heres my findings:

            Competition distributing and Linkert carbs.coms(into the wilderness) has some of the parts.
            Not everything is available.
            I ordered float pins from both sources and neither were correct thread as stated above the thread is an odd size and the head diameters are different. I was informed they made them with in either a 2 piece or 3 piece design.
            I also bought some air valve parts from www.Antiquebike.se
            My needle holder pivot pin was worn. I purchased 1/8 brass rod from Lowes home improvement store and had a friend turn it down to the proper diameter.
            the roller was worn as well and sourced that through competion. Mine did not have a bowl gasket, but i chose to add one from into the wilderness. Definitely buy a float from one of those sources. The leather flap is available as well, but my holder threads were shot(this i purchased from antiquebikes.se(3 day shiping)). The guy who runs Into the wilderness is very willing to talk shop if you call him direct. I've had quite a bit of help from a gentleman on the JD facebook page. Also there is a Linkert group on facebook that has some knowledgeable people. Its a rather complex carb for such a simple time. Theres a printed Schebler manual available for download on the internet, has some useful info in regards to tuning and what not, in additon to parts breakdown pics. A good machinist may be able to help you with the float pivot pin.

            Make sure to lap the seat the needle drops into. I used valve lapping compound and a sharped pencil. You can also use a chopstick or kabob skewer, I bench tested mine by putting a plug in the bottom hole and filling it with water first, then gas after i was positive of a good seal. My float arm was tweaked a bit and took some straightening.

            Good luck, from my limited experience these are kind tricky carbs.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Gotten,
              Just getting to repair my HX carburetors and your earliercomments are helpfull. Understand air valveis soldered in throttle shaft instead of with 2 screws. Any advise how best to de-solder and solder again in replacement throttle shaft.
              thanks
              leo

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by sidecarleo View Post
                Hi Gotten,
                Just getting to repair my HX carburetors and your earliercomments are helpfull. Understand air valveis soldered in throttle shaft instead of with 2 screws. Any advise how best to de-solder and solder again in replacement throttle shaft.
                thanks
                leo
                Just for clarity, Leo,..

                The spring-loaded seal on the mouth of the carb is often called the "air valve", and the throttle disc, or 'butterfly', is soldered into the shaft.

                With a wooden fixture to hold it in a vise, I use a jewelers' torch to melt the solder, and blow it away with compressed air.
                Reassembly is a lot more complicated; After the bore has been honed, and a fresh disc and radiused thrust washer have been cut to match, the assembly can be held in place by holding the throttle lever tightly closed with a rubber band.
                (Because the quality of commercially available replacements is horrible, I make my own shafts too.)

                As with any soldering operation, preparation is critical. Very little is needed to secure the disc and washer to the shaft.

                ....Cotten
                Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-05-2019, 09:34 AM.
                AMCA #776
                Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just made a throttle plate and made it completely round(except for the notch for the idle speed screw)omitting the radiused washer at the top. Did I screw up?
                  The engine will idle now even when advanced. Before it was racing in retard. I used one of Competitions throttle shafts and turned it down to .231(the throttle shaft bore cleaned up at .232). The only other mod I made to their shaft was to thin the nut they provide that retains the lever. It looked dorky with that tall nut and only half of it with threads that were actually doing work.
                  Last edited by scooterwrench; 04-02-2020, 04:04 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by scooterwrench View Post
                    I just made a throttle plate and made it completely round(except for the notch for the idle speed screw)omitting the radiused washer at the top. Did I screw up?
                    The engine will idle now even when advanced. Before it was racing in retard. I used one of Competitions throttle shafts and turned it down to .231(the throttle shaft bore cleaned up at .232). The only other mod I made to their shaft was to thin the nut they provide that retains the lever. It looked dorky with that tall nut and only half of it with threads that were actually doing work.
                    Well, Scooterwrench,...

                    If beveled somewhere around 10, where the edges shut upon the sides of the bore, its actually oval.

                    Usually its best to hone borewear away before fitting a disc (friction washer, idle notch, etc.), because you want the disc assembly to close with as little daylight around it as possible.
                    Leakage was the cause of idle issues, as you could not shut it all the way down. Air should be metered by the gap at the end of the adjustable idle screw.

                    With no friction disc, what keeps the disc from pulling upward, and wearing the bore and disc?
                    (Unless you have a very early model with the body casting bezel-crimped into a groove upon the throttleshaft, as shown in the attachments. But a friction disc is still prudent.)

                    If it runs better, I guess you didn't screw up too bad...

                    ....Cotten
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-02-2020, 05:10 PM.
                    AMCA #776
                    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                    Comment

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