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'27 J intake valve housing

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  • '27 J intake valve housing

    Hi all,

    I am just getting the parts together to rebuild the top end of my 27 J. I plan on using new valves, guides and valve springs for intake and exhaust - among a long list of other new parts.

    I am uncertain about though about re using the intake valve housing. First the two housings look very slightly different - see the posted pictures.

    One is flat across the top, the other seems to be a made up of three levels. When measured from the valve seat aperture they are, however, both the same height.

    One looks to be lighter overall construction but again the essential dimensions are identical and both fit into the cylinders I plan on using. The guide threads and valve seats look in very good condition in both to my eye.

    All of the other housings I have seen in pictures seem to be of the flat topped variety and I wondered whether this was a later or earlier factory variation?

    I cannot think of any reason why the cylinders would have been fitted with these different types as standard when the motor was new but one or other may well have been replaced during its working life.

    I'm just intrigued to know whether anybody else has come across this different type and knows when or why it was introduced?

    And also whether there is any reason why I should not use them in my motor. I'd like to keep as many of the original parts as possible but not at the expense of compromising the engines performance

    Thank

    Martin
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Just my opinion; I don't see any problem with the stepped valve cage. Actually, it might allow the 'Cap Clamp Nut' (as H-D called it) to have more thread engagement, and that can't hurt. Of course the valve cages must be lapped in and have full surface contact with cylinder.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

    Comment


    • #3
      Although i've only held maybe about 10 of these inlet housing in my hands, i agree with Eric; as long as the housing will give complete seals at valve face and cylinder seating surfaces, i would think they should work fine, i've not seen those "steps." in my ebay surfing adventures, i've not seen those "steps" on housings either. in terms of sealing the base where the housing mates to cylinder, i made up a tool to rotate/lap the housing to the cylinder; during my conversations with Jon Neuman, he advised sealing the joint using Permatex Ultra Grey 82194, which i did considering the heating expansions and cooling contractions of the two parts mated together. I've seen where some are selling thin metal rings to seal the joint, i don't see these rings listed in any of my factory parts books nor have i heard reports of their sealing effectiveness. my two cents worth, i am guessing back in the years these engines were produced, there was no sealant to resist the variations in temps sealing a combustion area so lapping was the approach used to seal the joint. i would speculate had a sealant adhesive been available the factory would have used it. as i said, that's my two cents.

      as a habit and form of pleasure i always enjoy learning from any post related to anything mechanical or electrical related to the IoE era; that's one reason i surf ebay and i also refer to the rider's handbook, the parts book and any workshop information when i read posts such as yours to not only learn but to keep my knowledge base fresh and up to date since i ride my '27. So, Martin, thank you for posting; i admire your patience, persistence and perseverance in bringing another Wreck of the Hesperus. Please do keep posting your welcomed progress!

      that being said, i opted for the "lead-free four port" housings sold by Comp.D, as the seating area for the valves on my two port housings were pitted beyond use. in my studies, fwiw, i've learned two variations of the four port housings were used on 28/29 "L" and "H" engine variations, and appears there are 2 variations of the two port housing used on J/JD engine. Too much information i realize, none the less i love researching this stuff, hopefully the addtn'l info is not annoying or detracting.
      Last edited by Steve Swan; 09-13-2018, 05:02 PM.
      Steve Swan

      27JD 11090 Restored
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClUPIOo7-o8
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtuptEAlU30

      27JD 13514 aka "Frank"
      https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...n-Project-SWAN
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNRB...nnel=steveswan

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSDeuTqD9Ks
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwlIsZKmsTY

      Comment


      • #4
        The factory lapped the cages to the cylinder, and used a concoction called 'plumbago' as a sealant. Plumbago is a mixture of graphite powder, and cylinder oil. The prefix plum (or the Latin plumbum) means lead (our member Robbie made that observation). I used a product called 'Fluid-Weld' recommended by Tom Cotton. It's weird stuff but it is purpose designed to seal valve guides, and cracks in cast iron. I used it on my Excelsior, and '16 H-D and it seems to be working very well. However, the best recommendations would have to be from IOE owners in the Cannonball, but most of those people, or the people that build those motors never share what they know. The sole exception to that is Shakey Jake, and he has been more than generous with his discoveries, and solutions.
        Eric Smith
        AMCA #886

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Eric, for that fine bit of information!
          Steve Swan

          27JD 11090 Restored
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClUPIOo7-o8
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtuptEAlU30

          27JD 13514 aka "Frank"
          https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...n-Project-SWAN
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNRB...nnel=steveswan

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSDeuTqD9Ks
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwlIsZKmsTY

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks all for your input and comments.

            I had planned to use Permatex to seal the thread, as much as anything as I have some on the shelf left over from another job. I will take a look at Fluid Weld as a possible alternative

            I'll post further developments as I go

            Regards

            Martin

            Comment

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