Setting up the control coil in handlebar

[DanM]

Happy HumpDay all!

When setting up the control coil in the handlebar, how are you handling the little spool at the grip end? After threading it onto the control coil, I can pull it into the bar to a shoulder. How do you keep it in place? Just the 2 nuts on the outer coil exiting the bar, or should I have a tapped hole in the bar for a lock screw into the "V" of the little spool?

I've got everything out checking it over, and the spool had come off the coil. I had too much slack in the grip- 1/4 turn to take up the play.

I think my 45 and even panhead have a set screw, and/or use one of the screws from the horn or light switch covers.

Well, anyhow- how did you do it?

THX
Dan

[exeric]

What year J, Dan? I'm not sure, but I don't think early Js used a set screw in the handlebars to retain the plug (as H-D called it). If they didn't (and I don't see a set screw listed in the early parts book) they must have relied on the double coil nuts on the out side of the handlebars, and the control coil clamps on the frame steering head. My 1916 J has 1914 handlebars and it was tapped for set screws, but that could easily have been done later on, as that is the superior way to anchor the control coil.

[DanM]

Thanks Eric. I did mock it up without the set screw, but I am leaning towards adding one. From underneath it should be invisible.

I have a set of bars for my '13 project, and they have the little "hoods" for the control coils coming out- those hoods are brazed on. I was told that's 14 only. After that it looks like its swaged out.

For the 13, the controls should come out the stubs which fix into the forks. But these will function.

Do you recall seeing the hoods brazed?

Dan

[Peter Cooke]

According to the VL Heaven book the set screws, 3333-31, were used for 31 and up but as you say 'underneath it should be invisible'. And you could still use the nuts where the coil exits the handlebar for authenticity.

[Steve Slocombe]

On the VL the set screw is hidden under the horn button and dip switches, which came out in 1926 and 1929 respectively, so later JDs should be able to hide at least one of them. Usually I find the plugs soldered to the control coil outer. While all these Harleys have one inch outside diameter bars, there are three different wall thicknesses. Thinner 1916-1930, thicker 1931-36, then intermediate later, so there are three diameters for the inner plugs, plungers and handlebar end nuts.

[DanM]

Thanks Steve and Peter. I do have 1 under the horn button.

I think I will solder the plug to ensure it can't come free.
Dan