Schebler Air Valve Casting Part Needed

[NL967A]

On a ride this week my air valve adjusting shaft came apart. The only part I lost was the air valve spring retainer nut. I have a Model H 3/4". Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks.
NL967A

[TechNoir]

Re: Schebler Air Valve Casting Part Needed

NL967A, is it this nut?



If so it is an east part to make if you have a lathe. If not then there must be someone near to you who could make one for you.

John

[NL967A]

Hi John
Yes this is the nut. If someone has one they would be willing to sell let me know otherwise I'll get one made.
NL967A
PS I'm on the AMCA Roosevelt Road Run. Very well organized and a great first day of riding. Great job Roosevelt Chapter!

[MMasa]

I'll look. I probably have an extra. Were you using the cotter pin?
Mark

[DanM]

I am fairly certain it's a 10-32 thread.

[DanM]

I am curious how this could be lost on a ride without getting into the engine?

[MMasa]

I do have an extra. PM sent.
Mark

[T. Cotten]

Sorry to get back into this late Folks,

But there were some that were #10-32tpi, but also some that were #10-40tpi.

Try a common nut first, John!

....Cotten

[Robert Luland]

I am curious how this could be lost on a ride without getting into the engine?

I agree! That nut and cotter pin would have gone straight down the hatch. That is the reason the motor company had a cotter pin there like other vulnerable areas. Bob L

[T. Cotten]

I agree! That nut and cotter pin would have gone straight down the hatch. That is the reason the motor company had a cotter pin there like other vulnerable areas. Bob L

Folks,

The carburetors were made by Schebler, not the 'MoCo', Indian, etc., and they did not use cotter keys.
It was a peened brass pin (as was the throttle assembly), easily duplicated with filler rod.

.....Cotten
PS: I am reminded by my photo library that I have also encountered very early models that were soft-soldered, and not pinned at all.
PPS: Apparently I have encountered oversize airvalve shafts as well, so anything is possible with a Schebler.

[NL967A]

Hello Friends
I'm back from a great AMCA ride hosted by the Roosevelt Chapter. Day one I put 160 miles on my 1915 HD twin. The next day my butt was so sore I went to a more comfortable ride. Feeling better by day 3 I rode my 1920 HD J 90 miles. All rides were successfully done without a break down.

You guys need to listen to Mr. Cotten. I have a 10-40 nut. (not very common in todays market) And the nut used a brass pin to keep it in place. I've had it apart before and at the time the pin seemed to fit just fine. What the heck it's lasted almost 100 years! Almost is the key word here. God only knows where the pin is now and I'm not loosing any sleep over it. Sooo if anyone has a 10-40 nut let me know.

In case you're wondering the air valve that came apart was on my 1920. The 1915 uses the same air valve. I just switched them on this weeks ride.

Love all your comments!
NL967A

[exeric]

All I can say is, if you're trying to keep an antique motorcycle on the road, you should have a lathe, and at least a drill press. . . And, have a passing idea of how to use them. You can buy a 10-40 tap from McMaster Carr which makes 50% of making your own nut possible. Scheblers I have had use a pin through the nut and valve stem, although a cotter pin, or twisted wire would work just as well. Making your own parts is about as satisfying as anything you can do in this old bike hobby.

[T. Cotten]

Of course, Folks,..

I am well stocked with both nuts, but by policy I only supply hardware with my services.

Hope you all understand,

....Cotten
PS: Eric!
Please remember that these poppet valves can 'hammer' with every piston stroke. Twisted wire or a cotter key should get down the road, but a solid pin peened at both ends works best, or solder of course.
The tricky part is to get it at the right spot for the right spring tension.

[TechNoir]

All I can say is, if you're trying to keep an antique motorcycle on the road, you should have a lathe, and at least a drill press. . . ................

Making your own parts is about as satisfying as anything you can do in this old bike hobby.

NL967A, this is a good piece of advice.

John

[T. Cotten]

My philosophy Folks,...

Is to invest in tools that make more tools; If I don't make a new tool each day, my day was wasted.

....Cotten
PS: Today, I hope to find time to harden my die for putting "teeth" on later floatlevers like the early Scheblers used to hold the float securely.
The design was probably abandoned because it often broke through the cork's coating, but with few adhesives available today that withstand P4gas, and the modern foam that cannot be soaked, it seems like the time to return to the practice.