Cones front hub 1916 J

[Nils_r]

Disassembly of front hub for my 16J. Cones are not in great condition- should be replaced I gather. I see that Competiotion distribution have cones but they do not quite look like mine - see picture. Is there a rebuild fix for more modern bearings or where could I find replacements for my cones.

Best
NilsR
cone_front_1916.jpg

[TechNoir]

By coincidence I am looking at bearings on the net right now for my 1920 bike.

The ones here:

http://www.antiquebike.se/en/pruduct...s-1914-27.html

Are the same as the ones that Competition Distribution have so perhaps they fit even though the originals look slightly different. Why don’t you email the Competition Distribution and ask the question?

Sorry I cant be more help although FYI my 1920 cones look like yours.

[Robert Luland]

Stop in your tracks right there boys. That is a Harley Davidson under sized bastard thread. The ones competition sells has to be used with there quill. It is not the bastard thread. I make all the hardware for that hub with the right thread but I don't make the race. Don't be surpized if Antiquebike is not getting them from Competition. Bob L

[Tommo]

I have a quantity of NOS HD front axle cones.
They are different to the ones you have but they go straight into HD front hubs
I've tried to positively id them but have always been unable to do so.
They have a spring ring around the od that works as an excluder.
Attached are two photos of them. One with flash and one without flash.
If you're interested e-mail me p.j.thomson@actrix.co.nz

[Nils_r]

Right, they are different I see as they have a possibility to attach a wrench for adjustment whereas mine has to wholes for adjusting using a tool with two pins. Are those NOS?- the reason I am discarding mine is due to some imperfections in the race- it can be seen in the picture I have included- however it seems like the NOS have these as well?- maybe not so critical with such large bearing balls? If the threads are different from repop to original I guess one would have to buy all internals new.

Best
Nils_r

[BigLakeBob]

Nils_r, why not just regrind the conical race area? Either using an OD grinder with the wheel dressed with the same radius, or on a surface grinder using a spin fixture with a wheel dressed the same. I guess you could also use a tool post grinder on a lathe.

[exeric]

Nils_r, why not just regrind the conical race area? Either using an OD grinder with the wheel dressed with the same radius, or on a surface grinder using a spin fixture with a wheel dressed the same. I guess you could also use a tool post grinder on a lathe.

If you did re-grind the races, do you calculate for an oversized ball, or do you go to the next available nominal size ball? Also, how far can you grind before you're into soft steel, or if you go that far, is the race junk? Just wondering how many alternatives one would have, Bob.

[BigLakeBob]

If you did re-grind the races, do you calculate for an oversized ball, or do you go to the next available nominal size ball? Also, how far can you grind before you're into soft steel, or if you go that far, is the race junk? Just wondering how many alternatives one would have, Bob.

If it were mine I would regrind to the same size ball counting on there would be enough adjustment to compensate for, just move the radius back, or if wore too far I guess I would then have to go oversize. I do not know what steel they used, so I would try regrinding if a new or substitute was not available. If the material was just case hardened, which is usually by today's standards .06 per side, taking into account the wall thickness on the part, it may have gotten hardened throughout. If the part did become soft, there is a process called gas nitriding that puts a very hard 'scale' on about .010 deep. I machine parts all the time out of 4140 pre-heat treated, S-7 tool steel and H-13 mold steel that get hardened then the customer gases them for extreme hardness. I am doing some right now.

I hate to say it, but is the bike going to be ridden across country, or only 2000 miles in the next 10 years? If one is not available, regrind and more forward until one is found or made from current dimensions. Just my thoughts.

Wanted to add, gas nitriding does not change dimensions. The parts I am doing have a tolerance of .0002, gas might change the part .00005 in diameter growth. And gas nitriding is harder than a wedding d!%k.

[Nils_r]

I guess I could but worried about the hardness and sizing- although I am not sure they are hardened. I have attached two more pics of one of the races- the track in the hub is in fine order, wondering if this is a older hub than 1916 actually

2016-01-04 17.15.10.jpg2016-01-04 17.14.50.jpg

[BigLakeBob]

Are you familiar with using a hand file as a quick hardness check?

I guess I could but worried about the hardness and sizing- although I am not sure they are hardened. I have attached two more pics of one of the races- the track in the hub is in fine order, wondering if this is a older hub than 1916 actually

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16375[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16376[/ATTACH]

[Nils_r]

Hi- well I know when something is hardened or not from testing with a file- I will check. Pic of complete hub
2016-01-03 16.10.12.jpg

[Nils_r]

It's definetly hardened- but I think the whole cone is hardened not only the race area

Best
Nilsr