transmission modifications

[Peter Cooke]

No. It will still seep out between the mainshaft and the main drive gear.
Mark

True, but that's on the outboard side of the final drive sprocket. Isn't that too far out past the oil catch for it to be any use?

[MMasa]

The purpose of the seepage is to lube the clutch bearings.
Mark

[Peter Cooke]

The purpose of the seepage is to lube the clutch bearings.
Mark

Agreed. Sorry, what I meant was 'isn't the point of seepage to far out past the oil catch for the oil catch to be of any use'. Hence leading back to my original question of the possibility of using the sealed bearing eliminating the need for the oil catch as there would be nothing for it to 'catch' in there anymore?

[otis71]

I finally got all the transmission parts and have started to reassemble it. When I adjust the main shaft end play any tighter than .010 the main shaft will turn freely by hand but has a good amount of resistance, I am assuming from the pressure on the seals. Is this normal? The bearings spin free and only with the new seal did the I feel the resistance. What is the tolerance on the main shaft? Thank you in advance and have a nice holiday.

[Steve Slocombe]

Later Harley shop manuals give the gearbox mainshaft end float as around 0.005". I usually tighten up the ball bearing holder until the shaft locks up, then back it off a third to half a turn. I have found it is good practice to fill the box with oil to test for leaks, and to run the box on the bench for a few minutes in each gear. This can be done with the clutch nut installed and a reversing hand drill. This procedure loosens up the box so the gears turn freely without being so loose that the oil seals pass.

[otis71]

With the countershaft installed the cluster gear has about 1/32"+ side to side movement. Is this typical or if not how do you correct it? Up and down feels good. Thank you.

[Steve Slocombe]

Doesn't sound right. Have you installed appropriately sized new rollers and maybe a new countershaft? Are the countershaft collars moving in the gearbox case? The countershaft does not rotate, so can have trenches dug in it by the rollers, and so give movement in one direction but not another. These early countershaft gears have the small rollers used 1917-31 which usually wear the races so badly that oversize rollers will not fix them. Many rebuilders are now fitting the 1932-36 VL cluster gear, with a lot more bearing surface, which fits back to 1915.

[MMasa]

Steve
I think he's just talking about end play. He mentioned that "up and down feels good"
End play (and location) is set by selecting the appropriate thickness of cluster gear thrust washers.
These are the washers with the three scallops in the OD that fit into the ends of the cluster gear.
You should end up with an end play of no more than 0.010". You should also select and place them so that the cluster gear does not rub against the kicker side brass seal washer.
However, with the amount of end play you have now, I suspect that the case thrust washer on the kicker side may be missing all together. The thrust surface on the CLUTCH side is the thick steel bushing that the countershaft slides through. The thrust surface on the KICKER side however is a thin stepped washer that can easily fall out of place. It's only about 1/8" thick and has a slight step in the OD. It is a light press fit into the aluminum case and can come out easily. Please verify that it is still there. If it is, then you just need thicker cluster gear thrust washers.
Mark

[otis71]

You are absolutely right Mark. Building a tranny from parts and having no diagram, I am just kind of doing trial and error. I found a thrust washer and installed it. Everything is buttoned up now and seems good. Thanks for the input.

[MMasa]

Glad to hear that it all worked out.
Mark

[Steve Slocombe]

Diagrams and procedures are in my VL book and apply to at least the later JD boxes.