JD kicker cover removal

[otis71]

I need to remove the kicker cover on my 26 because the clutch shaft is leaking. I removed the small dry cover and am wondering the proper way to disconnect the clutch shaft to remove the kicker cover. Also not being at all familiar with any vehicles of this age, what is the leaky clutch shaft seal made of? Is there any good repair manuals available? I have an original rider's handbook but it only covers routine repairs. It also makes no mention of the item that appears to be a pump in the right hand corner of the picture that I am aware of. Any help there. Thanks in advance.

[MMasa]

You unscrew the nut or nuts on the clutch side of the pull rod and remove it. At that point you can simply unbolt the cover and remove it.
I'm not sure what you mean by "Clutch Shaft Seal"
Mark

[harleytoprock]

There is no clutch shaft seal. The pump that you are referring to is a plunger that aligns the starter gears in the event the kick starter won't engage.

[otis71]

What keeps the oil from running out around the clutch on the kicker side? There is a small cover but that has no gasket and isn't a flat surface able to be sealed.

[otis71]

I still don't understand what keeps the tranny oil from coming out around the vertical shaft that runs trough the outer cover that bolts to the kicker cover on the right side of the trans. The shaft that activates the clutch rod goes through it and the kicker cover on the top and bottom. Also is 70 weight oil adequate in the trans? Any help is appreciated.

[vride5]

there is no oil in the kicker,you will find a small hole under the big gear, any oil that gets past the bearing is used to keep the dust down on the dirt roads of the day.

[otis71]

I am getting excessive oil. I assume the main shaft needs the brass washers replaced. What is the heaviest oil that I can try before tearing down the transmission?

[Tommo]

Otis,
The only way oil can get into that end of the gearbox is by getting past the mainshaft bearing and or its brass slinger washer.
The mainshaft has no oil feed holes in it and so if oil came out the clutch rod hole it either had to get in via the clutch or through a fracture in the mainshaft.
For your sake I hope its not the latter and its very unlikely to be that.
The easiest fix is to remove the mainshaft bearing carrier on the kickstarter end of the gearbox and replace the roller bearing assembly with a 6304 2RS Ball bearing assembly
It is a very easy operation and can be done without removing the gearbox from the motorcycle.
In NZ a 6304 bearing costs about $30 NZD and is perfectly adequate for the job.
High load 6304 bearings are available but are more than double the cost.
When removing the kickstarter ratchet be very careful not to damage the thread on the end of the mainshaft
When reassembling you will have to reset the mainshaft end float so don't just do the bearing carrier up tight and think that its all good to go as the mainshaft does need some end-float.

[otis71]

Can you explain the end float in more detail. Trying to find a good repair manual to get this bike going after being hid away for 64 years. I removed the kicker cover this afternoon and I believe the washer has to be replaced as you said. What viscosity oil should be used for summer use in the tranny? Thanks for the help.

[Tommo]

Otis
Oil; I use a straight 50 weight oil but if you ride in hot temperatures you may want to go up to 70,80 or 90 weight oil.
Just remember the heavier the oil the harder it is to change gear when the oil is cold and if you go to very heavy weight oils it will be harder to change gear no matter what temp the oil is at.
Mainshaft end float; If you are doing the repairs with the gearbox in the bike the easiest way to check the end float is to remove the chaincase and pull the clutch assembly in and out to see how much end float the mainshaft has.
To do this you must have removed all the kickstart ratchet mechanism but if you are replacing the bearing you will have done that anyway.
The lock ring on the bearing carrier is left hand thread and the bearing carrier is right hand thread.
Remove the lock ring then take off the lock tab plate that secures the carrier from turning and then unscrew the carrier housing itself.
Once the carrier is out its easy enough to replace the bearing and reassemble it back up.
The 2RS tells you that the bearing is a sealed type so by replacing the bearing you are modifying the oil sealing system to a more efficient style of oil retention.
You want about 15 to 20 thou end float when you finish up your reassembly and this is achieved by screwing the main bearing carrier in or out prior to the fitting of the lock tab and lock ring.
There is no Workshop Manual that I know of and until someone writes one you are flying blind.
If you are not a mechanic I'd recommend that you make friends with one quickly and together slowly nut out how you should proceed. If you wreck any bits you can't just go to the local Harley Dealer and order up some new ones. A lot of parts are reproduced but I'll bet the one you damage will be the one that is the hardest one to find a replacement for.
Remember the old adage "Slowly,slowly, catch'ee monkey."
Don't damage the thread on the end of the mainshaft. It's very easy to do if you are not very, very careful.
I hope this helps but surely there's someone living nearby who knows these old Harleys and is able to help you. Generally all it takes is a nice "Please can you help me."

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Tommo, later Harley manuals call for about 5 thousandths end float on the gearbox mainshaft so I do them up a bit tighter. If you turn the ball bearing holder in tight and then back it off half a turn, this usually gives a free running mainshaft with very little end play. My VL book has a gearbox strip and rebuild procedure in it, most of which also applies to the J models.

[otis71]

I know 2 brothers that are willing to help, one a machinist and the other a mechanic. Neither are familiar with these old bikes either. The satisfaction comes from not sending out to someone else. After all these years I am in no hurry. As long as this bike has sat taking my time is the only option. Thanks for the detailed answer and I will probably have others for you.

[MMasa]

Steve
That seems excessive to me. I believe that the bearing carrier has a 24 TPI thread. A full half of a turn back from tight would give a hair over 0.020" end float. If the right bearing, which is originally a separable angular thrust ball bearing, is replaced with a standard sealed bearing then it probably doesn't matter as much since the mainshaft really doesn't "float" that much when held tightly in the inner race of that new bearing.
Mark

Dear Tommo, later Harley manuals call for about 5 thousandths end float on the gearbox mainshaft so I do them up a bit tighter. If you turn the ball bearing holder in tight and then back it off half a turn, this usually gives a free running mainshaft with very little end play. My VL book has a gearbox strip and rebuild procedure in it, most of which also applies to the J models.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Mark, you can turn the ball bearing holder out further than half a turn before you get any free movement of the mainshaft. Are we going to tell Otis about the fun awaiting him with the split bronze mainshaft bushing?

[MMasa]

Steve
Fortunately the split bearings are being made now, but installing them is still a pain in the ars. Hope he owns a lathe.
With regard to end float, I've found that the brass seal disks at either end of the mainshaft assembly act somewhat like Bellville springs giving the illusion that there is no float. As a test, try assembling the mainshaft/ top gear assembly without the seals and loosen the bearing carrier a half turn. I think that you will find substantial float. I've always assumed that the seal washers spring action relaxed over time. Have I been doing it wrong? I seem to remember reading in the 1916 transmission rebuild service bulletin that you should tighten the bearing carrier dead tight and then loosen it just enough to fit the lock washer.
Your thoughts.
Mark