Step hub bent. Repair?

[Fins]

Restoring a 38 UL, it appears as if the rear wheel suffered a collision of some type that bent the hub. Spokes and rims were rusted and trashed, they're gone. All I have is the hub and a very worn brake drum/sprocket.
Instead of looking like this |-| it looks like this |-\
I'd say that it's 1/4" to 1/2 " out of true. As it's an original step hub I'd hate to toss it. Is there any place that can straighten this for me?

[bmh]

Can you post some pics that show it? Need to see how it's bent to know if I can Fix it or not.

[Rooster]

Have you contacted Buchanan's? They are not known for repairs, but if it was me, that's where I would start.
http://www.buchananspokes.net/

[Fins]

Here's a few pictures showing the extent of the damage.

[Robert Luland]

Unfortunately, that’s scrap. The only way that could be like that is if the tube gave way to the impact. The only way your going to know is to unbraze the spoke hub. Bob L

[Chris Haynes]

It should be simple to fix using a press.

[Paps]

If you make an arbor to hold the hub in a lathe chuck on center, you can try rolling the flange back into true by mounting a tool [you may need to make this tool] which holds a roller, in your tool compound on the lather carriage, I would heat the hub area around the brazing considerably before forcing your roller tool against the hub flange though. Pa

[Robert Luland]

Ya, how do figure. I love to learn something here? The body is so rust pitted it's unsafe. With a shot like that if the braze joint didn't give way. Something did. The barrel. I would just love to know how your going to get that straight in a press? I'm always willing to learn. You'll spend countless hous for nothing and end up canning it. Bob L

[Rooster]

I can see it both ways.... Looks to me like it could be straightened, with a little creative ingenuity in a well-equipped shop. I sure wouldn't be afraid to try it. But, I would never introduce heat on a brazed part; metal has memory, and the bend can be reversed with the right kind of careful persuasion--- but as soon as you introduce heat, the memory is gone, you'll end up with crap.
But I can also see it Bob's way--- the wheels are your life, and not a place to compromise. Yes, there's some pitting, but it doesn't seem too severe, and the spoke holes aren't elongated. However, here's the big question--- if there's that much pitting on the outside, what do the bearing races look like? If they're pitted, then why bother...?

[exeric]

I agree with Bob in that heat will possibly ruin the integrity of the origianl brazing. Getting it close to true is okay for lacing and truing the spokes, but you still have to deal with hard part of getting the bearing races in-line. The sad reality is; it's probably an item for the display case now.

[Robert Luland]

I gave this some thought. If your one of those people that has all the time in the world? This is how I would go about it. First I would machine a steped shaft to go up though the center and weld it to a plate. This will keep it true to the butt on the bottom of the hub. Next I would machine a U yoke to slip over the barrel with a steped end piece which is threaded and taped and bolted (3/4" plate minimum). Then just get any crap steel ya got laying around the shop and weld together a U to press down on the yoke you just created. Job done! You now have one grand in machining and you havn't even started pumping up the press with no garranties. The last perfect step hub I sold on Fleese-Bay last year went for $135.00 bucks. You guys do the math. Bob L

[46EL]

I agree with Bob L. For a lousy $135 I would never risk my life or somone elses or even such a valuable Motorcycles fate with something important like a Hub. 46el

[Erdos]

I wish I could find a good step hub for $135. If anyone has one I'll take it.

[Chris Haynes]

I would just love to know how your going to get that straight in a press? I'm always willing to learn. You'll spend countless hous for nothing and end up canning it. Bob L

It is called experience Bob. I have seen Ron straighten many bent hubs and he did it COLD.

[Paps]

When I mentioned heat...I didn't mean hot. I meant real warm. I agree with loosing the integrity of the metals if to much heat is applied. Some heat is good though. Heat allows the molecules to move about more easily. Brasing may crack and or split open if forced while cold. I didn't see any barrel damage, just flange damage. I assumed the races were servicable. If they aren't use it for a pencil holder. Paps