Is anyone making ignition coils and exhaust system for 25 an later JD's?What about rear fenders?Also are 25 an later JD's frames the same?Thanks TEB
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25 and later JD's
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Teb,
The short answer is that there are subtle differences on all of the 25 to 29 frames.
I don't have time to go into the details at present because I'm hard out preparing my 1919 TT Triumph and 1947 Manx Norton for our very large classic race meeting this weekend.
If nobody has answered your question fully by the time I get back from Pukekohe I'll answer your question in detail then.
Hope that suits and a lot depends on me keeping the shiney side up this weekend.
Regards, Tommo
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I have seen exhaust system reproductions from the netherlands on Ebay from time to time.
I had the coil rewound on my 26 J, but maybe if you dont want to go that way, you could find a new coil that would fit inside the original coil? It comes apart pretty easily.
Good Luck Steve
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Teb,
Repro coils are being made by Kevin Hellowell here in the UK try his website for contact details
http://www.aamc.i12.com/
Repro Exhaust systems are being made by Christian Henn in Germany his website details are
http://www.geloman.de/html/harley-davidson.html
As Tommo said in his reply there are differences between the 25-29 frames, to the extent that the '25 frame is a one year only frame and I believe the 28/29 frames were differenr from the 26/27 frames also.
Kind Regards,
Martin
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/harleyjd/
PS Tommo, is your email working ? as I sent you mail just after Xmas regarding SA gearboxes.
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TEB,
Sorry it taken so long but here is the frame situation as I know it.
Without exception all the 1916-1929 frames I have seen are factory "DATED, NUMBERED and MODEL CODED", a dealer replaced frame would be the exception, but I have never seen one.
I have also never found a machine with matching numbers. (frame, engine, gearbox.)
Some loop frames are stamped before the tank rail was soldered on and some after. The former doesn't make it easy to find the numbers unless you are replacing the tank rail.
All numbering is done on the top of the top frame rail between the front of the seat post casting and the rear of the pivot post for the front of the saddle.
Sport models are the exception and they are stamped on the machined surface for the rear engine plates and require major dismantling to view.
As Smarty said 1925 was a one year only frame, first year of the cast shoe and tear drop tanks, last year of the narrow mudguards and older style gearbox.
The easiest way to identify a 1925 frame is by the 5/16 dia rear wheel chain adjusters.
All 26-29 frames have 3/8 dia chain adjusters.
All the 1926 on frames have the said 3/8 adjusters but the 1926 and 27 frames do not have the strengthening sleeves that the 28/29 frames have.
28/29 frames have strengthening sleeves at the top and bottom of the seat tube and on the top frame rails just in front of the rear wheel castings.
All 26-29 frames will interchange with one another and I do know of instances where 26/27 frames have been disguised as 28/29 frames by the sweating on of dummy sleeves.
There are several other small things that give these forgeries away like the fact that the earth screw tapping in the 26/27/28 frames is not used on the 29 frame so if someone claims to have a 29 frame and it is tapped in the centre of the rear mudguard mount casting for a 10-32 screw it is not a genuine 29 frame.
To further muddy the waters I have seen a genuine, unrestored 28 J that is still in the original family ownership that has what I consider to be a 1926/27 frame.
The grandson of the original owner let me take the tanks off so I could view the numbers and lo and behold it was factory stamped with very early 1928 numbers.
From this it is reasonable to believe that the factory used up all stocks of the 1927 style frames before releasing the new strengthened ones that are synonymous with 1928-29.
I hope this helps but if anyone thinks something is not quite right please say so as this fella is never too old to learn and sure doesn't know it all.
Regards, Tommo
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Tommo:- Thats a very informative piece of information you have submitted. Looks like you have spent a lot of time on research. I wonder why none of my frames have numbers on em? I must be lookig in the wrong place or they have possibly just eroded. I have two 28 -29 frames, now that I'v read your info, I can be sure of what I have, thank you for that info. The other frame is a loop type pre 25, I think the number tab was soldered on? Missing in any event, no numbers there either. But you are right in where the numbers should be as I'v been told many years back they are where you describe. I have two other loop frames but on restored bikes and I think I would need to remove the tanks tp check?....Good work Tommo...
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Tommo: Thank You for the helpful information. I'm hoping you might give us a little more detail on how the numbering system worked. My '25 HD JE has frame numbers UNDER the top rail between the seat post and pivot post. It reads 968-25 __ (I can't make out yet). Thanks Steve
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Originally posted by scd
Tommo: ... little more detail on how the numbering system worked. ...
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...d/message/1300
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Sorry I didn't respond quicker but I was away south at the warbirds air show at Omaka setting up the sidecars for the
re-enactment guys so they could stand up and fire guns while riding along and the rig would run straight and true. Had quite a few pupils so in theory I won't have to go again, they should all know how to do it now.
scd.
Normally the numbers are read from the left side of the frame and run from front to back. I had a quick look at 5 frames I have and have included the numbers as a guide.
25 F 1536 / 25 F 6145 / 27 F 7288 all mag model J's
26 J 2379 an electric model J and 28 H **** a JDH 2 cam frame.
As you can see in all examples the model code appears after the year and before the number. In 1998 when I visited the factory I asked about the significance of these numbers but no one I talked to had any answers for my questions. I think it makes sense that as there were several different models being built each year that as construction was occuring some form of model identification would be necessary and although a tag or something similar could be hung off the machine it could easily become knocked off and lost so as far as I can deduce the number on the frame was used as a production I.D. code and as the tanks are generally the last thing to be fitted that code was visible the whole time during assembly.
I think it's important to note that as far as I'm aware only one frame was produced for the general production models and it became a F / J or what-ever with the wack of a letter punch so it is only relevant if you are that fussy that you require your complete machine to conform to the model code stamped on the frame. I've purposely left out the JDH numbers, too many replicas being made.
Paul
Puke was a blast but as I was riding I didn't take many photos.
The 47 Manx Norton performed faultlessly. It is the actual machine Bill Doran rode to second place in the 1948 IOM senior TT.
The 1919, fixed engine, belt drive, TT Triumph lost all sparks and became a static exhibit but I did get a couple of runs at close on 70 mph before the sparks expired. 67.89 mph to be exact.
I'll see what I can do about some photos, seriously though this is one of the best classic race meetings in the world and maybe some of you should look at putting together a group and coming over for it. You won't be disappointed.
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