Clutch Cable Modification

[billpedalino]

I'm installing a set of period-correct Laconia handlebars on my '64 XLCH and I now notice that the available clutch cables are all configured for the later, higher buckhorn bars. As a result, the cables that I have are too long for a correct fit so I must shorten one.

Because both ends of these cables have swaged-on and soldered anchors, I must do some cutting, anchor ferrule fabrication and soldering to shorten the cable. While not a big deal, I have had problems with lower anchor pull-out on XL clutch cables (yet another testament to aftermarket quality). Before I break out the brazing torch and use more heat that I like, does anyone know of a structurally strong solder (or another adhesion technique) that would offer adequate strength in lieu of using brass?

Thanks...

[jim d]

I always made up my own cable end from steel rod of the size needed. I drilled a hole the size of the inner cable on a lathe through a longer than needed piece of the rod and cut them to length with a hacksaw. I then countersunk one end of the cable fitting out to the OD of it. Slide it over the cable with the countersunk on the end. With a 1/8 or 3/16 of the cable sticking out. Put the inner cable in protected vice jaws in a vertical position with only the cable fitting above top of the jaws. Use a ball peen hammer or something to flare the cable sticking out above the fitting in to the countersunk area and out over the end of the fitting. I always used hi-temp silver solder. Flux everything well and put in in the vice as before with only the fitting setting above the jaws. The vise will act as a heat sink and protect your cable from the heat damage and the flaring out the cable end will keep it from ever pulling out after it is silver soldered. Cool it right away to keep the heat off of the inner. Dress it up on a sander or grinder.
Jim d.

[billpedalino]

Jim - Thanks for your methodology. That's pretty much what I was considering, except that I was going to use brass. The silver solder is a better approach though.

When you 'Flare' the bitter (outboard) end of the cable, I assume that you splay open the cable wires and tamp them down into and around the countersunk end using light tapping with a small ball peen hammer? Also, have you had any problem with the silver solder taking to the galvanized cable wire?

[jim d]

Yes I use a small ball peen and some of the cable strands may overhang the OD of the fitting and I just let them go to the silver soldering is done and dress it then. The silver solder will take well to cable and sweats in nicely. I have repaired many used cables by cleaning them with lacquer thinner first. You will need to just flick the torch off and on the cable and fitting, because it is easy to overheat it and get those strands red hot then as you know nothing sticks or flows. You may want to try a practice piece first to get the feel for it. I always flux with a liquid flux well including the cable below the fitting in the vice to help protect it.
Jim D.

[billpedalino]

Thanks Jim. My concern was the heat needed to melt the brass if I was to use brazing. The silver solder is a far better approach. I'll report back when I'm able to steal a Saturday morning for fun (bike) work and get it done...
Bill

[ihrescue]

Thanks Jim... I'll report back when I'm able to steal a Saturday morning for fun (bike) work and get it done...
Bill

It sure would be a nice opportunity to see progressive photos as you build this ferrule if you haven't already completed the project. Great thread.

Mike Love
AMCA #19097

[billpedalino]

Mike,
I'll try to take a photo this weekend and post it.

It sure would be a nice opportunity to see progressive photos as you build this ferrule if you haven't already completed the project. Great thread.

Mike Love
AMCA #19097

[billpedalino]

DSCN4124.jpgDSCN4123.jpg
Mike,
I've attached two photos; one of a practice piece and the other of the finished piece. I turned down two ferrules on my lathe, drilled them to the cable size (plus about 0.003") and counter bored the outside ends at 30 degrees. Also, I increased the O.D. of the turned ferrule about 0.005" over the stock 0.250", as I never trusted those thin early (pre-1965) anchor pins, although I never had one fail. But it was on the lathe so what the heck..
I then slipped it on, flayed the ends of the slightly protruding cable out a bit, just like the wire rope guys used to install leaded end sockets. I applied the silver solder and it flowed in very nicely, although I added a bit too much on the external diameter of the barrel and ground some of it off. I dressed up the end and that was it.
I'm having problems taking close shots with my digital camera, so I hope they're clear enough to see enough detail.