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Pogo Problem on a VL

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  • Pogo Problem on a VL

    '35 VL: Installed new seat bushing, the seat post came out with no problem and after the bushing was replaced, the seat post went back in without incident.
    However....now, a medium bump in the road or moderately hard sit-down causes the seat to bind and stick all the way down. A yank on the seat releases it but only until the next bump.
    Tried to remove the post to find the problem but after removing the seat post nut, the post will come up only about 4" before binding and hanging up, so now I can't get it out. Applying more upward force only tightens and binds it up worse. When raised, I see no evidence of binding from the bushing itself, so I think it's happening somewhere below that point.
    In the stuck-down position, about 1 1/4" of the rod shows above the frame-
    >Is that about how far it SHOULD go down, or is something preventing it from going all the way down?
    I could use a jack to apply more pressure to pull it out but have heard some horror stories about the rod breaking and leaving the lower half stuck in the frame. Do NOT want to do that.
    Any suggestions much appreciated.
    Rich

    Rich Inmate #7084

  • #2
    If the seat post was used, it is worn in the main area of travel. When bottomed out the unworn portion of the post at the top is too big to fit through the bushing. The bushing is probably distorted at the top from the bind or possibly the bushing moved in a bit further and mushroomed at the bottom where it seats in the frame. If you ding the post around a bit with a rubber hammer you may get it out without ruining the bushing. It is always a good idea to have a used post machined to a uniform diameter, but if a lot of material is removed you may have to have a bushing made with a smaller I.D.
    Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046

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    • #3
      A worn out seat post shouldn't get stuck. It sounds like something on the post is bent. A banana shaped post will get stuck in certain positions. To get the post out, have you tried rotating the post in different positions and then pull up?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by koanes View Post
        If the seat post was used, it is worn in the main area of travel. When bottomed out the unworn portion of the post at the top is too big to fit through the bushing. The bushing is probably distorted at the top from the bind or possibly the bushing moved in a bit further and mushroomed at the bottom where it seats in the frame. If you ding the post around a bit with a rubber hammer you may get it out without ruining the bushing. It is always a good idea to have a used post machined to a uniform diameter, but if a lot of material is removed you may have to have a bushing made with a smaller I.D.

        Thank you-You nailed it, I got it!
        I think what happened is when I put the new bushing, it drove down a tad bit lower than it was supposed to be. That caused the bottom of the bushing to mushroom in slightly onto the worn part of the post.
        I pushed the seat all the way down to the sticking point and hammered the post from all directions (4 pound hammer & a piece of 2X2 to keep the hammer away from breakables) repeatedly. After a few whacks the seat would pop up, re-stick it and hammer some more. It took a while, but now has full travel.
        Thanks again.
        Rich

        Rich Inmate #7084

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        • #5
          Have the same problem on my Servicar, only I could still get the post out. New bushing and repro post. Tried a different post. Same problem. Almost acts like the springs are weak. Got frustrated and pushed it aside. Guess I'll try beating on mine, too. Rich, saw your paint job on the other thread. Top notch! Looks great! Dale

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          • #6
            UPDATE: Seat post stuck again, broke it loose but couldn't get it out to permanently fix the problem.
            I was finally able to remove it with a 1938 Plymouth jack(!), chain and several wood blocks (A near-death experience). Suspicions confirmed, I had driven the new bushing about 1/8" in too far and mushroomed it inward onto the worn part of the seat post.
            Started out using a 1/2" thick cold chisel as the cross piece, when it started to bend from the force, switched to a thicker drift. Success at last. Center photo should have appeared last.
            Last edited by frichie68; 04-26-2014, 11:04 AM.
            Rich Inmate #7084

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            • #7
              I want a 1938 Plymouth jack!

              Glad you worked on it until you solved it. Waytogo!
              Gerry Lyons #607
              http://www.37ul.com/
              http://flatheadownersgroup.com/

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