Starting issue

[wyatt emp]

My JD has become REALY hard to start. Sometimes my leg gives out from kicking it so much I give up. It will pop and tries to start but wont. When it does start, which is very rarley, it runns good. Pull the pluggs and there is always spark, but often no gas smell so I am thinking it is a carb issue. I have a Schiblet DLX38 that is WELL worn. I put a new valve and seat, cleaned the jets, and shimmed up the air intake shaft as it was so worn it could be moved up and down which affected the low speed valve position. I ran down the high speed and low speed needles, then turned out the high speed about 1 1/2 turns and the low speed about 3, but still nothing. Do I need to send it to someone that knows better then I or might it be shot? Is there a better carb folks are using?

[sirhrmechanic]

I had my JD out at the recent Vermont Road Run. It did exactly the same thing, as the carb was all gummed up and the float was fuel soaked. I put in a new float and cleaned everything in lacquer thinner. Took a couple of hours and it was off to the races. That bike has always been a one kick starter. So when it did not start right up, the problem was pretty clear.

Not sure if your tank is clean inside or if it's been sealed. But we are finding all kinds of nastiness in old tanks caused by ethanol. The old varnish that is stuck to the tank and fuel system will sit just fine. Until you put ethanol in, which dissolves varnish very well. It puts varnish into solution and puts it in the carbs where it turns everything into a 'candy apple coating.

That said, you mentioned your carb is well-worn. You should be able to get new jets, etc. But those carbs are so simple that they tend to work, as long as clean and adjusted, even when in frightful condition. If it was working before, it probably did not 'wear out that much more' in limited riding. So I would look first for dirt or varnish.

Most of the time on old engines, the problem is ignition. But you eliminated that. That said, what's the condition of your condenser? Internal to your coil? Can you be getting weak spark? It's a common issue with starting hard and, moreover, running poorly. I used to think that condenser either worked or didn't work. But an engine will run with a bad condenser... but won't make power. And it will spark very nicely....

Just some thoughts...

Cheers,

Sirhr

[wyatt emp]

My tanks were very rough. I had to glass them then use a tank sealer. Had the carb off a couple of times and it always looks clean. I am using a repop VL coil with a NOS condenser I found on E-Bay mounted on the right side, looking at the leads, which is also contected to the points. Even spraying starter fluid dosn't work, just an ocasional POP! Got it running again yesterday but got impatient and opened the choke which killed it and it would not start again. FRUSTRATING......... Th100_0362.jpg100_0361.jpgere is a blue spark but not real strong?

[Sargehere]

Recheck the ignition timing. Sounds like it's out-of-time 2me. As JD points wear, they close up, won't start.. Re-gap and re-time, just to be sure.

[T. Cotten]

Wyatt!

A Schebler DLX38 has neither fixed jets, nor a replaceable valve seat.
But just about anything should still start and run, as the design is enormously forgiving.

Starting difficulties are most commonly a vacuum leak, with little to do with the carburetor, although over-enrichening can mask a small leak,.. for a while.
You may save a tailchase (and your leg) by bubble-testing your manifold, as discussed at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

When that variable is eliminated, we can go on to other concerns.

....Cotten

[wyatt emp]

Looks like an easy test. I will give it a shot. Is it also posible that my valves are not seating well even thoe it will occasionaly start and run? Also as my carb is very worn is it possible to have a leak around the throttle valve shaft?

[T. Cotten]

Wyatt!

For the valves to fail to seat, or at least bottom out, the adjustment would be noticeably tight.

It is not a question of if your bushings leak, but how much. They are quite,... uh,... forgiving.
Which is not to say that they should not be tended to, but that it probably is not our root problem.

DLX38s had their own issues, particularly with their venturies, but lets eliminate any evil manifold leak (EML) first.

Let us know what the bubbles say,

....Cotten

[wyatt emp]

Rodger that. I am guessing it is a fuel delivery issue as when kick starting I get an occasional kick back that lifts me off the floor so it has compression...... I will do the bubble test this weekend.

[c.o.]

. I am guessing it is a fuel delivery issue as when kick starting I get an occasional kick back that lifts me off the floor so it has compression...... .

If it's doing that, I would be wondering about timing.

[rwm]

I am using a repop VL coil with a NOS condenser. a blue spark but not real strong?

it's harder to make a spark under compression. if your using a repop coil you may have it hooked up wrong. somewhere on this forum is a thread about how f@#$k up those coils are. i imagine after sarge has his morning coffee he'll jump in and splane it exzackley to you. cotton's started you in the right direction with the bubble test. then check that damn junk coil. you most likely have it wired backwards. easy fix if it's not dead.

[Jim]

The repro coils have the (+) on the right side (holding the coil in your hand with the mount bracket on the backside). IF you remove the coil, you can see a small + just behind the tab where you screw on the wire. Hope that helps.

Also, just for "fun" how is your battery? My VL won't start and if it does it may quit if the battery isn't fully charged up. Even if the lights look good and the horn beeps, I still may need to charge it. Sorry, I don't have any "voltages" for you for comparison. I just found that out the hard way... of kicking, kicking... etc.

[Sargehere]

And that coil "+" post gets the hot wire from the main switch. The points wire goes off the other side. That's opposite of the old wiring diagrams and rider's manuals. The coil is thrown backwards in all repop coils.

That shouldn't have anything to do with hard starting, however. It just leads to premature coil failure. I agree with c.o., above. If it's kicking you back, it's out of time. And advanced. And won't start. As I said above, "Re-gap and re-time, just to be sure." The factory instructions for setting the points are clearly explained, and an excellent guide.

[wyatt emp]

Looking at my coil, and looking at the plug wires end, my timmer and condenser are hooked to the right side with the left going to the cut-out or regulator where the hot wire is. Is that right, and if not why does it have spark? It still bothers me too that I can kick it with the ignition off and full choke then pull the plugs and there is no gas smell.

[wyatt emp]

Plug wires up or down? Also in regurad to the kick back, I have my timmer fully advanced. Should it be retarded for starting lika a Model T?

[Jim]

Looking at my coil, and looking at the plug wires end, my timmer and condenser are hooked to the right side with the left going to the cut-out or regulator where the hot wire is. Is that right, and if not why does it have spark? It still bothers me too that I can kick it with the ignition off and full choke then pull the plugs and there is no gas smell.

You should change the wires around... The coils will work with the wires hooked up either way, but won't last as long if wired backwards. Of course make sure you see the (+) sign on the right side where that is the HOT side. The other side is the one that goes to the POINTS. You can probably check the (+) sign with a small mirror and GOOD light without removing the coil. It has something to do with things that I can't quite explain.Even though BOTH plugs fire at the same time, it has something to do with the direction of the spark and I cannot begin to explain it.

You should check out this link:

http://www.caimag.com/forum/showthre...uot-coils-Fail