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28 JD PART Needed> 4515-26 Switch Mounting Plate (Bottom Cover Only)

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  • 28 JD PART Needed> 4515-26 Switch Mounting Plate (Bottom Cover Only)

    These were made from 1926-28. I need the cover that mounts to the bottom that covers the wires & fuse. Picture below is what the cover mounts to. 2 1/2 X 5 inches. If you don’t have the part please forward this posting to anyone that might have the parts! Thanks, Steve
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SteveAdventure; 05-12-2012, 10:44 PM. Reason: Part needed is made 26-28

  • #2
    I don't think that there is a cover for the underside. Anybody know different?
    Mark Masa
    Mark Masa
    www.linkcycles.com

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    • #3
      I've never seen one
      Peter Thomson, a.k.a. Tommo
      A.M.C.A. # 2777
      Palmerston North, New Zealand.

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      • #4
        If there is not a cover what are the screws & the four ears for shown in the picture.

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        • #5
          Picture of 1928 Haley JD exposed wires & fuse

          Here is a picture of the ignition mounted to my 28 JD looking up from the backside. You can see the fuse & wires exposed to the weather. screww & 2 of the mounting ears for something!??
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            The two screws hold the top cover on and the 4 ears locate the top cover at the correct height so that everything works as it should
            Peter Thomson, a.k.a. Tommo
            A.M.C.A. # 2777
            Palmerston North, New Zealand.

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            • #7
              Thanks to everyone for solving this mystery for me! I recently road the bike in a light rain and the bike stalled at a stop. I couldn’t get it restarted until after it dried out and thought the ignition was the problem!! Guess I need to look for the problem in another area!! Any ideas?
              Attached Files
              Last edited by SteveAdventure; 05-13-2012, 09:57 PM.

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              • #8
                Steve,

                With your top cover off you may want to check that there is good space between terminals when the switches are in the off position, and good solid contact between terminals when the switches are in the on positions.

                On my JD I found that the copper bars where almost touching in the off position, and under the right circumstances would make connection with the sloppiness of the rotary switch even in the off position. I added a little more bend to the bar that moves to get better separation in the off position. This is another source of a draining battery.

                If the switch cams are badly worn they might not move the bar enough to make good connection in the on position. Likewise if the stationary copper bar is bent to far away such that the moving bar doesn't come into solid contact. This could explain the bike cutting out when the switch housing got wet.

                There are only a handful of electrical connections, make sure that each are making good contact and there isn't paint preventing solid electrical contact. Lock washers or star washers can give a little extra bite for good contact.

                Randy Hassler
                #68 2012 Cannonball

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                • #9
                  Steve
                  Another problem may be the angle it's set at. Does anyone else think that the whole dash is bent down at the drivers end? It looks almost vertical. It shouldn't be flat, but it ma be bent down too much and that may allow water to weep in around the sides, back and around the switch handle holes.
                  Mark Masa
                  Mark Masa
                  www.linkcycles.com

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                  • #10
                    Steve,

                    Attached is the picture from the '28 new model brochure that shows the angle of the dash that Mark was referring to.

                    Randy
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Thank you for the great feedback! I think your right about the angle of the ignition housing; I’ll check it out and the contact positions.

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