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WLDR ball-bearing "cheater" motor information needed!

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  • #16
    Good thing. As you know I don't want no boat anyway,I've got bikes to drain my bank account. Good luck on your sale.
    The bike runs great and no more trans issues. I'm planning on riding the hell out of it as soon as my wife's hip is better.
    Call me if you get down this way I'll buy y'all dinner and a beer.

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    • #17
      Bust Out Another Thousand
      D. A. Bagin #3166 AKA Panheadzz 440 48chief W/sidecar 57fl 57flh 58fl 66m-50 68flh 70xlh

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      • #18
        Boat= A hole in the water that you throw your money in.

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        • #19
          ball bearing number

          Originally posted by servi47car View Post
          Hi Herb,
          I have my Father's 1940 WLDR. We opened it up today and what a thrill to find it is all ball bearings in there and a forged flywheel with magnesium pistons! I believe this motor was not apart since the 50's.
          How is your "cheater project" coming along?
          I am anxiously awaiting your results.
          Thanks,
          Dan
          You didn't happen to notice the number on the ball bearing on the right case did ya?

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          • #20
            The big stepped crankpin (1" tapers, 1-1/4" journal) and big rod set dates to the 1939 WLDR, but AFAIK standard shafts.
            The problem with ball bearing camshafts is that the BB OD is much larger than the std. plain bearing, for which the WR ball-bearing case used a 3/4" (smaller) pinion race than the stock 7/8" WL. I don't know of any way to install BB in a case that already has roller pinion.
            The Linkert Book

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            • #21
              Originally posted by kitabel View Post
              The big stepped crankpin (1" tapers, 1-1/4" journal) and big rod set dates to the 1939 WLDR, but AFAIK standard shafts.
              The problem with ball bearing camshafts is that the BB OD is much larger than the std. plain bearing, for which the WR ball-bearing case used a 3/4" (smaller) pinion race than the stock 7/8" WL. I don't know of any way to install BB in a case that already has roller pinion.
              I haven't popped a race out of a case but I am guessing that the steel insert in the case has an i.d. of 1 7/8. With the snap ring in place, it's 3/4" deep. A standard R14 bearing is 3/8 thick and they made a double row baring which is 3/4 thick

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              • #22
                This thread is relevant to my current project as I'm looking to convert WL cases away from rollers w/shims, looking at either balls, spherical or timken. Anybody tried this ? prefer to save as much insert material as possible for added strength so looking at using the smaller WL sprocket shaft, information appreciated, thanks, Tim

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                • #23
                  To accomplish what?
                  The Linkert Book

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                  • #24
                    Much less drag. I air'd up a regular BB and it spun for like 5 seconds total (after the air was removed), then I air'd up a ceramic BB and it spun for like 30 seconds and far more rpms. Less friction, more rpms and ponies

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                    • #25
                      It is, but the actual HP gained is very precious.
                      The Linkert Book

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by kitabel View Post
                        It is, but the actual HP gained is very precious.
                        Why do you think the factory went to all that extra work for all those years if there was very little gain?

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                        • #27
                          All H-D have to beat all Indian.
                          Factory H-D has to beat privateer H-D.
                          This year's H-D has to beat last year's H-D.

                          It's only a lot of work ONCE, then it's just assembling different parts.
                          The Linkert Book

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by kitabel View Post
                            All H-D have to beat all Indian.
                            Factory H-D has to beat privateer H-D.
                            This year's H-D has to beat last year's H-D.

                            It's only a lot of work ONCE, then it's just assembling different parts.
                            And there's the answer to your original question, you go to all the trouble to try and beat the people you're racing against

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                            • #29
                              Of course i did notice the number, lol.

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