1925 JD Cannonball Bike

[Jerry Wieland]

Yesterday at the Viking Chapter AMCA meet I picked up a few things for my bike - among them was the shifting linkage bracket on the left. When I compared it to the one I had I noticed that it was not as heavy duty. Anybody have a year split for these different/same pieces.



Thanks Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Awhile back I showed some pictures of my worn pivot hole on the brake pedal. Here the pedal is after it was bushed with a brass bushing.

Can somebody also verify that the hole originally was 1/4" in diameter.



Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Can anybody verify if this is the correct profile for my rocker clutch linkage finger. I noticed a couple of other JD's have a bracket that does not make the two 90 degree bends but maybe more like 60 degree.

I know I have to redo the linkage shaft yet.



Thanks Jerry

[MMasa]

Jerry
1926 is the first year for the 90/90 arm.
Mark Masa

[Jerry Wieland]

Mark Will this work with a 1925 transmission?

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

I tried but was never able to find a one-year only 1925 OEM fender and nobody apparently making them. I recently purchased a Replicant Metals reproduction of a 1924 and down fender.

What makes 1925 one year only is it is the only narrow fender made for the shorter front end. HD lowered the profile of the 1925 and up bikes by approximately 1 inch when they changed to the curved frame back bone and gastank but still kept the narrow fenders for 1925.

Here is the fender mounted in the front fork the way I thought it should sit...



But if I tighten the mounting bolts down so that the fender pulls to the mounting tabs this is the way it sits,



Does anybody have a 1925 that they can measure from the lower rear of the fender to the fork mounting hole. I sure would appreciate that number.

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Here is what I attempted to make - a brake anchor for my frontend. This is the only picture I had to go on plus my memory. This is a 1926/1927
frontend on a friend's 1928 bike with a late version OEM brake anchor installed.



The thickness of an OEM anchor doubled up and painted is about .220 so I started with 2 pieces of 12 gauge sheet steel and bent each in an angle in a brake.





I formed the 2 pieces around the leg using heat from a torch.







Then it was a matter of trimming metal until it resembled the original one







Believe me this was all very time consuming and I would not go into production because no one could afford to pay the labor.

Here is the finished product needing only the anchor hole and some touch up cosmetics and then paint.



I did have to cheat a little because of my wider wheel hub. I could not have the anchor wrap full around the back do to limited space for my brake anchor so I trimed it off and then stitch welded the back instead of brazing.

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Here is the frame fresh from powder coat and ready to start parts hanging.



One question. What is the threaded hole for in the middle of the upper frame member and what is the thread pitch?



Normally I like to assemble everything without paint first but time is short and I do not feel that I have the time to mock it all up.

Jerry

Jerry

[sswaney]

"One question. What is the threaded hole for in the middle of the upper frame member and what is the thread pitch?"

Jerry, that would be for your ground wire location. It's 8-32 I believe.

Scott

[Jerry Wieland]

Thanks Scott - that makes sense. Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

Here is the brake anchor all finished and ready for paint. It isn't perfect but it will work just fine and probably fool most JD guys once it is painted.

You will probably notice that I did not braze around the top of my bracket. The reason is that I know of 2 forks that are broke and they broke at that point. I suspect that the braze created a stress riser and that normal flexing eventually caused a crack to form.



Now I have to get back to that front fender which is getting to be a real dilemma.

Jerry

[Jerry Wieland]

OK Here we have a real 1925 fender (top one) which Mark Masa was very generous to loan me to figure out what I need. Mark also loaned me the strap brackets that are used on a 1924 and up fender. I probably will try to buy a couple of these from Tom at Replicant or else it will be something else I need to make.

The bottom fender is a reproduction from Replicant Metals which is listed as thru 1925 replacement but it would not fit a 1925 without a bunch of work. Lucky for me I am not doing a restoration - I just need a fender that looks the part. The Replicant Metals fender is probably more appropriate for 1923 and down.







Two things keeping this fender from fitting my fork and tire. #1 this fender was made for a pre 1925 fork which is approximately 1' longer than a 1925 and up fork. #2 this fender has reliefs to clear the fork which I cannot have because my tires drags on it.



So I started cutting the brackets....

[Jerry Wieland]

I've got a question - today I was digging thru my bucket of intake valve pockets and noticed these.



The one on the left came out of a 1928 cylinder I bought at Davenport. The 2 on the right I've had for a while and do not know where I got them. My question is: what do they fit? They same to be of the same approximate size as the other but are definitely opened up more plus they are front/rear cylinder specific.

Jerry

[MMasa]

I've got a question - today I was digging thru my bucket of intake valve pockets and noticed these.



The one on the left came out of a 1928 cylinder I bought at Davenport. The 2 on the right I've had for a while and do not know where I got them. My question is: what do they fit? They same to be of the same approximate size as the other but are definitely opened up more plus they are front/rear cylinder specific.

Jerry

The early large pocket 74's had the housings on the right, and yes they are cylinder specific. You will notice that they have an R or an F stamped on the top. (Rear and Front). The top pin and orientation notch are also F or R specific.
The style on the left is later.
Exactly when and why the change was made is something I've not looked into yet. I know that early 61" intake housings also had only one rib and breakage was an issue, presumably due to there being insufficient support if the clamping nut was drawn down too tightly.
While I've never seen a single rib 74" housing broken in the manner that the single rib 61" housings broke, that had to be part of the consideration since they increased the number of ribs at the expense of unimpeded air flow. I would also suspect that making the housing universal (same for front or rear) was part of it too.
Mark Masa

[Jerry Wieland]

Mark Thanks for the reply. Shucks and I thought maybe I had something good -- Oh well. I am finished with the 1925 fender and brackets that you loaned. Thanks you very much - it was very much help. I got all the parts made I needed and if my vise grip pliers had not slipped at the last moment, I would have had the fender done except for the reliefs to fit a narrow fork. Just need a few minutes tomorrow night and it will be.

Jerry