Trying to find an oil leak.

[Bills37]

I had oil pooling up in the primary cover in my 34 VD when it sat for a couple of days. When I pulled the cover and engine sprocket off, this is what I found. A piece of the keyway broke out of the crankpin.

34VD 004.jpg34VD 006.jpg[ATTACH]

34VD 006.jpg[/ATTACH]


Life just got a little tougher

[Paps]

Looks like metal fatigue but why would that cause oil leakage ? Are you sure the oil is not coming from your gearbox ? Paps

[Bills37]

Transmission level isn't going down. Looks like the case is sumping when it sits. Does anyone know what is involved with replace the crank seal?

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Bill, yes there are more likely places to explain oil in your primary cover. The chain oiler operates by by-passing oil through the oil pump and into the breather pipe, and from there into the primary cover, rear chain, rear tyre etc. This was a great idea for dirt roads, but a bit oily for today, so start by turning the chain oiler screw on the oil pump right down. Next most common cause is oil slowly draining into the cases through the hand oiler pipe, because the check ball in the hand pump is not seating properly. Leave off the hand oil pipe for a couple of days to test, then lap in the seat, replace check ball and spring etc. There's more if this doesn't work. Best regards.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Bill, we're a long way from replacing the sprocket shaft oil seal, which requires splitting the cases. Let's work on the easy ideas first.

[Bills37]

Thanks Steve, as a long time Indian rider I am a little lost on these "new fangled" Harleys. I will try as you suggest. Thanks for the help. Bill

[Bills37]

Mr. Slocombe, you hit the nail on the head. I checked it this evening and the oil appears to be dripping from the chain oiler. I disconnected the hand oiler as you suggested and will wait a couple of days to see what happens. If I may ask could you tell where this chain oiler screw is located. My books show a different style oil pump than what I have on the bike. I am hesitant to do anything until I have a better understanding of what I am looking at.

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003.jpg It has this adjustment on the side of the oil pump??



001.jpg Can you tell me what the purpose of the spring loaded valve is?

[Bills37]

Gratuitous picture of the whole bike.


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[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Bill, nice looking VL in full-on Art Deco paintwork - you're going to have a lot of fun. The chain oiler screw is the one facing you as you look at the oil pump body, and it looks pretty well down. The spring you mention is for the oil drain valve. First thing to do is put a tray under the bike, give the drain valve a quarter turn, and tuck it under that catch bolted to the rear cylinder base. Measure the oil - should be just 5 or 6 ounces but my guess is it will be more. Pump the hand oiler 3 times, drain the cases, check oil volume. 3 pumps again, go for a ride, drain on return, blah blah. The idea is to set it up so you have as much oil when you return home as when you leave - 5 or 6 ounces. Because the motor is new, and with oil rings on the pistons, this will probably mean turning down the pump below the factory settings.

[Bills37]

Well things have just gone to hell in a hand basket.


I go to pull the oil line off the oil pump to drain the tank. With barely any effort at all the tube and fitting break off. (You could have bought me for a nickel at that moment) Now I freely admit that I'm a newbie when it comes to old Harleys but I have been mechanic for thirty years (Caterpillar) so I know my way around a wrench. This shouldn't happen.

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Upon further inspection the oil pump housing appears to have been "repaired" at one time.
There is epoxy around the boss where a steel flare fitting was screwed into the oil pump housing. The threaded portion of the fitting remained in the oil pump housing with the flared end still in the oil tube.

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I removed the sleeve from the oil pump housing and the fitting from the tube and it appears to be a flared fitting that someone has cut down and threaded 3/8-24 and stuck in the oil pump housing. The only flaw in this is thinness of the fitting once this is done. I am unfamiliar with what the OEM pump looks like and as of yet have not found any good info on A 34 flathead so I am only guessing here.

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I think I can turn out a new fitting with better strength and salvage this housing. Can any one tell me a good source for a parts & service manuals for this model. I would like to find some new gaskets for the oil pump too if they are available.

One more question. Can someone explain what the function of this is? It attaches to the end of the oil pump and has a throttle cable attached to it that tuns a cam inside the oil pump that rides againts a swash plate. Governor?

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Thanks, Bill

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Bill, ouch, new bike huh! You'll have to remove the left tank to re-solder the hand oil pipe fitting. On the oil pump, there is a replacement inlet nipple threaded a little larger which should get you out of trouble. The swash plate etc is part of the throttle controlled oiling system - as you open the throttle it increases the stroke of the oil pump piston. There is an Owners Handbook for this bike, but no Shop Manual except my VL Restoration book which I hope you have already. I try not to do business on this forum, so please contact me separately for parts as I have them all.

[Bills37]

Thanks Steve. No worries, you have to expect this with a bike of this vintage. Problems are meant to be solved not fretted over as my Dad used to say. The tank & hand pump are fine. The issue is with the inlet fitting on the oil pump. I have a lathe & Bridgeport mill in my shop so I am considering making a new fitting with enough wall thickness to hold up. I understand your book is a must read if you own a VL. I'll will get one on order the first of the week. Thanks for your input. Bill