Flatheads WR ????s

[motorpickle]

I need to pick the brains of any WR experts out there. Are the cylinders and casting numbers(120-39+120-391) the same for a 40s WLD and the later WRs? Will the WLD cylinders work on a WR. Is the valve angle the same? Is the tapered hole for the pinion and gear shaft the same for a standard 45 flywheel and the WR? I know the shafts,bearings,and spacers are different. Anybody willing to part with any WR motor parts? Thanks in advance for any and all help. Best to everyone in '10!!!!

[Rubone]

motorpickle,
WLD cylinders are not angled and fit on a standard WL lower end and cam set-up. They also have smaller ports than WR. '40 and '41 WLDR cylinders are the same as early WR. Tapers are the same on the shafts. And all WR parts are in very short supply. I need a cam cover myself. There is a basket WLDR engine on eBay for $4000!
Robbie

[motorpickle]

Thanks for the info. I have been watching the WLDR motor you mentioned. This stuff must be made of gold. I just scored a motor basket case. It came with cylinders that need work. I don't want to sink a lot of $$$ into them if they will not work. I hope to get something to kick over by this coming riding season. Later...

[Chris Haynes]

Didn't I hear some talk about WR cylinders being reproduced?

[Rubone]

Chris,
Lots of talk, but no action on the cylinders.
Robbie

[KDR]

Get yourself a set of the new reproduction WL cylinders and install bigger manifold nipples.....there's enough meat to do this.....good luck with the inlet however. Have bigger inlet valves installed. Port if you have the patients. Use #6 heads and WLDR cams. Put a set of stroker flywheels in from Truett & Osborn and you'll have a very reasonably priced 45 hotrod.
Below the asking price of a used basket motor.

e-mail me if you need more info: kurt@45partsdepot.com

[Rubone]

Motorpickle,
Mike Carter has a WR engine for sale completely rebuilt and restored. I think he is asking about $25,000.00 for it. There is a pair of cylinders on eBay for $2000. You would be better of building a hot 45 and not a WR if you intend to use it on the street. Ball bearing WR lower ends and cams are not good street engines. They are designed for low friction but being rebuilt every race or so. Use the WLD clinders, get some good cams and if you want it to run, stroke it!
Robbie
'47 WL
'42 WLD
'41 WLDR
"48 WR

[motorpickle]

Rub,
I saw your bike list at the end of your last post. Nice!! I have a 48WL for a daily rider. Totally restored stock. I took the liberty of putting 18" tires on it and I am very pleased with the outcome. I also have a 40WLD motor and tranny. Then I finally got this 48WR motor. I am trying to decide the final version with practicality, economy, and end value in mind. Maybe that is too much to attempt, but I'm gonna try none the less. I looked over my cylinders and I don't know if I am properly identifying them. They have the 120-39 and 120-391 casting #s and the Milwaukee Castings logo. How do you read the date code? Each cylinder has an individual letter followed by a raised date tag. The date tag has two digits-dash-one digit. Is this whole line month-day-year? The valve seats are very close together and almost overlap the top of the cylinder bore. If I understand everyone's imput, these are late WLDR or early WR cylinders. Do late WR cylinders have different casting #'s?
I am trying to keep the bottom end original with the ball bearing shafts and cams. Whatever else I bolt on is easy to change in the future.
Thanks to everyone else who answered. I am considering the big port repop cylinders but I don't know if they will work with my original lifters and cams.
Many questions and many good answers........

[fabercycle]

M-pickle, If you have existing cylinders that aren't too good, it may be worth fixing them. If you replace all the good stuff with wldr parts....then it's not really a WR any more.

Rub,

We race WRs. I think rebuilding every race or so is a bit radical........ We get appx 1200-1500 full throttle miles on a top end before losing compression to the point of needing it made fresh.

I say if the guy wants a WR motor, built it that way.

[Rubone]

Tom,
I wasn't saying he would have to be rebuilding constantly, what I was saying is that WRs do not make good street motors. There are plenty of ways to build hot 45s and most do not involve ball bearing lower ends. And other than Daytona, no current racing stresses an engine as it did back when these things were new. !00 mile, 200 mile, 50 mile, even 25 mile races are a thing of the past. My own race motor is a hybrid of parts. And what about all the Aussie guys who came over a couple years ago. Most of their stuff was WL based. And fast!

Motorpickle,
Whatever you do, have fun!
Go here and read the threads, it has all been covered.
http://www.flatheadpower.com/tech/
Robbie

[rwm]

talk to paul at american cycle fab in berwick pa.paul reworks the oil pump to realy move oil.last time i talked with paul.you could get a g motor from bill's bike barn witch is next to him and have paul stroke, bore,port and regrind cams for less then $5,000.at that time bill was chargeing $900 for the g motor.check it out www.americancyclefab.com

[steve hartley]

The aftermarket cylinders will not work on your WR. The WR cylinders have the valves canted towards the bores as you saw (close to bore) and alignment of your valve train will not allow what your intending.
Your only choice is to repair your cylinders or find good replacements.
The WR heads are specific also if you do not have them.
Do not allow just anyone to sleeve your cylinders, if needed, as they are difficult to do correctly.

[Eric MATHIEU]

Identifying WR & WLDR can be confusing. Especially WLDR. A few years back I put together a chart to make it easier. You can find it here.
http://www.beautyofspeed.com/data/cy...wldr/index.htm

More generally, I have posted loads of WR/WLDR information, factory documents etc... on my website here:
http://www.beautyofspeed.com/workshop/motor.htm

Despite high prices on some of the parts, WRs are way under-rated in my opinion. Remember these are factory race bike!
Eric

[motorpickle]

Eric,

I have been so busy looking at your website and my parts I forgot to thank you. Your explanation of the differences in various years and models is very valuable and interesting. Thanks!! If I get some decent pics of my cases, would you want them for your site? My cases are original factory issue including all correct casting numbers, unaltered VIN numbers and deck, and matching belly numbers. I would not mind sharing some of the info. Thanks again!

[Eric MATHIEU]

No problem. Yes please share info on your cases etc... You can email me pictures direct on the email indicated on the website.
Eric