Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

45 Generator Shims

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 45 Generator Shims

    1. Why are the generator shims paper? It looks like they're guaranteed to get oil soaked and compressed.

    I've got steel shim stock in .001, .002, and .005 I'd like to use, but if there's a good reason it has to be paper, let me know.

    2. Is there a way to determine generator gear lash without removing the cam chest cover, or will it cost me a $36 gasket every time the generator has to be remounted?

    Or, once the shim thickness is determined with the cam chest open, can the generator be removed and remounted using the existing shims?

  • #2
    Good question. Im about to mount one in my 46 WL. Id like to know that myself. Any takers? And if you do have to take the side cover off, What falls out? Is it better to lay the bike on its side?

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm not trying to be a smartass, but if you're paying $36 for cam cover gaskets that's the problem you should be working on resolving.

      Comment


      • #4
        i cut my generator shims out of a budweiser twelve-pack container and have had no problems. my 45 does fart a lot, though. hmmm...

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by indianut
          I'm not trying to be a smartass, but if you're paying $36 for cam cover gaskets that's the problem you should be working on resolving.
          Haven't bought any yet, just saw the price of the James gasket in the V-Twin catalog. I've never had the cam cover off, but it seems like the thickness of this gasket will affect the cam shim requirements, which would cause me to have to buy a tappet remover to check the cam end play etc. This is a row of dominos I don't wish to flick.

          What justifies the higher cost of the James piece? Better material? More exact dimensions?

          P.S. I'm only dealing with V-Twin since I'm trying to burn up a "store credit" caused by a defective oil pump purchase. I thought I'd have a better chance of getting a usable product from them with the James choice.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here is an exerpt from the factory manual.
            On removal:
            Observe and count the number of paper shims between generator and cradle. Lay these shims aside to be used again when generator is re-installed. Also note location of hole in shims for oil drain. These shims were required in original assembly to adjust driving gears for proper mesh and, if left out, gears are still likely to mesh too deeply and howl, even thoughthey have seen considerable service.

            On assembly:
            Make sure same number of paper shims are used in reassembly as were found underneath generator when it was removed. After an engine has seen considerable service and gears have worn to some extent, they have possibly developed enough lash or play to permit safely removing one or more of the original shims and thus effecting closer meshing and quiter operation. However, this should not be done unless timing gear case cover is removed so gear mesh and lash can be carefully checked.

            Paper shims are approximately .004 thick with a hole located to line up with oil drain holes in the generator frame. Later models may not have drain holes.

            If you want the factory procedure for setting gear lash, just let me know.

            Comment


            • #7
              45 Generator Shims

              Motorhead1-

              Thanks for the description. I have a service manual, the military manual, and Palmer book that describes this method. What's the publication number of the factory manual? I might like to have one.

              My motor was built using cases I had, and a 32E generator supplied by the builder. The "shim" I found under the generator was one thickness of fragmented oil soaked office stationary with the letterhead of the business still visible. I've found most random office paper to be @ .001".

              I think I need to treat this as never having been fit up using the procedure described in the manuals, pull the cam cover and do it right. I'd like to use steel shims so it will stay right.

              Rex

              Comment


              • #8
                I used to buy my gasket paper from a old machine shop that knew what its compressed thickness was last time i tried to buy it they gave me a funny look*. i bought some oilproof boiler gaskett paper in different thickness and compressed a piece of each and wrote it on each roll. saves me a lot of time as i measure the cams then add for the gasket and put it together. by using the same roll every time i cut one it works good. *maybe i should have combed my hair that day

                Comment

                Working...
                X