Clutch shifting issues - '32 HD VL

[loch]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ar2s6ditfI&t=822s

The URL is to my Youtube page video that shows clutch shifting issues.

I've getting some miles on the machine since I finally got over my fear of inadequate drum brakes, a foot clutch and operating a manual advance.

Recently, I've been having issues shifting. It started with just one gear, not being able to reliably get into high gear. Then, as you can see in the video, getting into first from a standstill was nearly impossible after I stalled it when starting on a slight incline.

I made an adjustment the throwout bearing so that it is between 1/4 and 1/2 inch free play at the clutch lever. The clevises on the ends of the shift rod have about 1/8 slop in each. In other words, with the adjustment made to the rod and throw out bearing according to the manual I think the slop in the clevis holes might be the issue.

Any thoughts?

Loch

[Buster]

If the shifting continues getting worse or gets to where it will not change gears, you could have one or more of the six clutch sector screws backing out. If so, the screw will eventually come out into your primary. Thats fairly common, mine has done it three different times about 500 miles apart.

[loch]

Thanks Buster!

I think you're talking about the clutch spring screw (2507-30). I should check them to see if they have similar tension, or if any have already fallen out. I would be surprised though. Have less than 100 miles on the machine since I began post-rebuild road tests. Still running-in really.

Loch

[Buster]

Disengage the clutch and see if any are loose with a screwdriver. You can check one at a time thru the inspection plate on primary cover.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Loch, remember you have a crash gearbox, so coming down through the gears can be noisy, plus getting into first from a standstill. Your gear shifter rod is fouling that rubber gas line which is not helping, but great scenery! You need to take out any lost motion in the clutch operation, so those clevises need to be changed. The 2500-19 thrust washer behind the clutch is also important and came in 0.006" thickness increments originally. The idea is that the drum should not quite drag or be so loose that you have lost motion in the clutch pull rod. If you have the correct 2507-30 clutch screws they have forged dogs under the head which lock with the oval holes in the clutch drive disc and should not come loose.

[loch]

Thank you Steve and Buster!

First a burning question regarding point (4). What is the clutch drum dragging on?

drum should not quite drag or be so loose that you have lost motion in the clutch pull rod

If anything I would think this issue is it is too loose.

One point at a time.

1.

remember you have a crash gearbox, so coming down through the gears can be noisy, plus getting into first from a standstill.

- I did not realize this point. I also discovered, through watching the various videos, I'm probably shifting too quickly and need to slow it down a bit. It's not a modern bike. I spoke a seasoned rider and builder of VLs. He mentioned double clutching. I'll just slow the roll a bit. It seemed to be working on video I posted.

2.

Your gear shifter rod is fouling that rubber gas line which is not helping

- I did realize this a few weeks ago. I have correct valves now so I when it's colder and I feel less like riding I'll take the time to drain the tanks and put the correct lines and valves on it. Recall, this machine was supposed to carry me to California during the Cannonball last year. I didn't make the starting line for myriad different reasons, e.g., broken gas outlet pad, leaking gas valves and part orders not arriving on time. But I kept at it. The rubber gas lines are not permanent. But since I can ride it now I'll change them later. Unsightly but functional. And though it appears as though they hinder the shifter linkage, they do not. I made sure of it when installing them and doing driveway tests.

3.

You need to take out any lost motion in the clutch operation, so those clevises need to be changed

- I had a very good discussion today with that same person mentioned in (1) about the play in clutch rod linkage. I took the rod with me when I went to see him. He said, that's not wear. Somebody drilled out the clevis holes. And after looking at the new ones I picked up, he is probably correct. So I have new clevises and new rear stand bolts. Those will go on in the morning. I'll reset the clutch rod play and clutch lever play and give another go.

4.

the idea is that the drum should not quite drag or be so loose that you have lost motion in the clutch pull rod

- If the problem persists, the weather guessers are calling for rain on Sunday. I'll remove the clutch for inspection and check the free play.

5. As for the screws - I have the correct screws with tabs. But I admit, this being the first clutch I have ever dismantled and reassemble I probably need to do it again now that I'm more comfortable working on the bike.

A big thank you to all of the folks on here that have assisted me during this journey thus far - far from over, and loving every minute of it!

Loch

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Loch, keep having fun with these old bikes, it's amazing that you can ride a 90 year old bike every day, and a tribute to William S Harley's rugged engineering. In answer to your first question, if the 2500-19 spacer is too thick it binds the back of the clutch drum against the gearbox and the clutch drags. You may just be able to measure the clearance with a long feeler gauge. Too much clearance and you have potential clutch wobble and lost motion in the clutch operation. Try a little less ignition advance at low speeds. With practice on quiet roads you can stay in top gear then retard the ignition to slow down and advance to speed up again and so save changing down to second.