WLA/C handlebar removal

[loch]

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Hey Everyone,

While I'm having a blast running in and tuning the VL I'm taking the time to strip down the wayward WLC for a proper rebuild.

I'm trying to get the handlebar off. I'm pretty sure (been a while) it came to live me without the top pieces of the steering damper. Nevertheless, they are missing. She also came to me with a coat of paint that appears to have been applied willy-nilly as a means to an ends.

I've tried a couple of good whacks with a 10 pound mallet and block of wood. Didn't budge. Tried some WD40 and a 10 pound mallet. Still no movement. So I thought maybe I'll take the ridged fork off. The spring fork already removed. So now I cannot figure out how to get the ridged fork off the frame.

Have found any real instructions, a step-by-step in any of the publications I have. I have a nice exploded view of the steering damper components but that's about it.

Any ideas how to proceed?

I'm chipping away at the paint around the bottom end of the steering damper until I hear back from those with more wisdom. Or until I discover something.

Thanks!
Loch

[Rubone]

The bottom half of the steering damper doesn't need to come off for handlebar removal or rear leg from frame removal.
Are the pinch bolts loose or removed from the handlebars? From your picture that is all that can be holding them other than rust and old paint. Soak the ends of the fork legs with good penetrant. If needed you can slip a thin metal piece in the gap and install the bolts from the wrong side to create a press to open up the gap. It should tap off. Then there is just the crown nut holding the fork stem, inner races, etc in place. Here is a picture of the assembly. this is a BT diagram but 45 is the same type assembly.

Knuckle fork stem.jpg

[loch]

Thanks Robbie.

The pinch bolts are nonexistent. I contemplated using cold chisels, gently tapped into the gaps on either side of the neck. But I wanted to check here here first for concurrence. I suspect rust and paint are holding the handlebar on at this point. I'll soak overnight in penetrating oil and give it another go in the morning.

The second half of this issue then is how to get what remains of the steering damper out. Your sketch is very similar, same components as in the WLC parts manual exploded view. My bike is missing everything from the releasing spring upwards. Seems like the steering damper rod and all the components below the neck should drop to the ground. Could rust and paint be holding the rod in place? I pulled the torque arm from its recess in the frame head. I rotates freely but there's little clue about what to do next.

Loch

[Rubone]

Thanks Robbie.

The pinch bolts are nonexistent. I contemplated using cold chisels, gently tapped into the gaps on either side of the neck. But I wanted to check here here first for concurrence. I suspect rust and paint are holding the handlebar on at this point. I'll soak overnight in penetrating oil and give it another go in the morning.

The second half of this issue then is how to get what remains of the steering damper out. Your sketch is very similar, same components as in the WLC parts manual exploded view. My bike is missing everything from the releasing spring upwards. Seems like the steering damper rod and all the components below the neck should drop to the ground. Could rust and paint be holding the rod in place? I pulled the torque arm from its recess in the frame head. I rotates freely but there's little clue about what to do next.

Loch

It is common on older forks left out in the weather to freeze the center rod due to rust. In the picture see the "fork crown" and rod relationship. there is virtually no room there and rust freezes those parts together. Fill the inner neck with penetrant. You may need to soak a long time, and may need to use heat as well. And even they you may fail to get it apart. Many rods have been destroyed trying to remove them.

[T. Cotten]

It is common on older forks left out in the weather to freeze the center rod due to rust. In the picture see the "fork crown" and rod relationship. there is virtually no room there and rust freezes those parts together. Fill the inner neck with penetrant. You may need to soak a long time, and may need to use heat as well. And even they you may fail to get it apart. Many rods have been destroyed trying to remove them.

And even after you surgically remove it, Loch,...

Applying a pair of narrow-ground cold chisels will still be prudent (although I often carved sacrificial butter knives).

....Cotten

[loch]

Thanks Cotten. I'm in the soak stage so I've got some time to listen to all of the input I can get. Sacrificial butter knives - this might be better. The cold chisel - I think the bevel on a cold chisel might be too steep an angle. I want to preserve as many parts as possible during disassembly, and then figure out what's useable. Maybe none of it. But at least I'll give the best shot.

Loch

[T. Cotten]

Trust your instincts, Loch!

One trick suggested, that I never got to use, was hanging it from above, so the weight of the machine assisted removal.

(I think it was for seatposts, but the principle applies.)

....Cotten

[loch]

Excellent idea! I'll need to put the engine back in the frame. Don't think the frame alone is enough. Maybe just a couple of cinder blocks. I'll figure it out. Great idea though. Think smarter, not harder.

[T. Cotten]

I've got a stash of cinder blocks, Loch!

But they are a fraction of the weight of a concrete builder, and quite hard to find.

Ultimately, you will resort to some sort of soft hammer to coax it off,.. side to side. ..

I've almost run out of croquet mallets.

....Cotten

[loch]

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Excellent Suggestion T. Cotten!!!

Surplus U.S. Army Butter knives from an old field mess kit to the rescue! Some soak time with penetrant. And then the gingerly applied butter knives (my wife is out of the house so I raided the kitchen drawers - hehehe) and then as you suggested, some not so gingerly coaching with my 10 lbs attitude adjustment tool and piece of 2x4 to protect the bottom of the handlebar. Once it started to go the swings became a little forceful. And then POP!

[T. Cotten]

Just hope no genuine U.S. Army Butter knives were hurt, Loch,..

Got a drawerful of knives out of the dumpsters, but none of those!

(Well maybe, I dunno. But I know they are as scarce as cinder blocks.)

...Cotten