'32 VL dry spark plugs

[loch]

Hi Everyone,

Still having issues with the VL. This is when I expected everything to work as designed, with the manifold reseated, the timing and valve clearances set, I expected it to just fire right up.

Nope.

I close the choke, cycle the kicker a couple of times, gasoline starts to drip from the carburetor throat (the machine is on the jiffy stand). Turn the ignition on advance the spark, set the choke to 3/4 closed position, crack the throttle and kick it over. Nothing. Kick it again, nothing. Open the choke all the way, open the throttle all the way. Kick it again, nothing. Gasoline is dripping from the carburetor throat. Still nothing. Not even a hint that it wants to start.

I close everything and turn off the ignition. Pull a spark plug, its bone dry. Pull the other one, same thing. I pull the carburetor to inspect the manifold, it's wet with gasoline. I'm expecting the spark plugs to smell of gasoline and be visibly wet from all the attempts to start it. Neither of these are true.

If I put my finger over the spark plug hole and cycle the kicker pedal I can feel the pressure build up and then the suction as the piston moves in the cylinder. If I put my hand over the carburetor while cycling the pedal I get the same sensations and can feel the gasoline spraying inside the carburetor.

I'm at a total loss here. About to pull the heads but not sure why or what I'm looking for. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Loch

[Shovelhead68]

Gas should not be dripping from the carburetor. That’s where fires start. You have a float and needle problem sometimes just tapping on the carburetor will set the needle I would drop the bowl and inspect I use the full stainless needle, also go to 1/4 open not 3/4 closed that’s just me . Fix the gas leak and try without air cleaner in the way.

[loch]

Thanks Shovelhead. I figured the gasoline dripping from the carburetor was a problem.

Not sure what the difference is between 1/4 open and 3/4 closed is. They sound the same. I mean, I set the choke so that it's nearly closed. Are you suggesting that I set it so that's only a little bit closed?

I will inspect the float and needle. But I don't think that will address the issue with gasoline not getting to the plugs. With all of the gasoline in the carburetor, some of it should get drawn into the combustion chamber from carburetor.

[Shovelhead68]

Sorry I miss spoke yes 3/4 open , this might not address your main issue but fires happen and we don’t want that.

[knucklehead 61]

some gas dripping from the carb throat is normal. carb roughly adjusted properly? i would check to make sure the intake valve lash is not too tight & holding a valve open. have you checked the spark? have you replaced the condenser? points set properly? do you have a ground wire from the timing plate to the gear case cover? plug wires good? plug good & gap set to .028-.030? timing set to front cylinder & not rear or 180 out by mistake?

[loch]

Thanks Knucklehead! New condenser, plugs and pug wires. I need to readjust the plugs gap - I have them at .022. I will also check timing but I'm pretty sure it's correct, set to front cylinder. Yes there is a ground wire to gear case cover. I set the idle needle at three full turns and the high speed at 2 full turns. The owners manual I think says 2 for idle and 1.5 for high as a starting point. It was being so difficult I decided to open the idle to 3 full turns to see what happens.

I checked the valve clearance last night. Only the front intake was a little too tight. But not so tight that it held the valve open. I have the intakes set to 0.005 and the exhaust set to 0.007. This is within the range stated in the owner's manual not what's in the Shope Dope but I figure it's a good beginning point.

Sorry I miss spoke yes 3/4 open , this might not address your main issue but fires happen and we don’t want that.

Yup, thanks Shovelhead. I am cognizant of the hazard and am on top of the drips with a clean rag to wipe up the gas that drips onto the primary cover. I've had issues with a stuck needle before with my PANHEAD. This isn't that. if the needle weren't seating correctly there would be gasoline all over the place. I pay close attention to how the float rides on the pivot and ensure that even with the motorcycle on the side stand there's little chance the float will bind against the side walls of the bowl. I've had that happen. It's not pretty.

[dukekleman]

Loch,
I would verify static ignition timing and spark integrity.
As mentioned above, being you don't mention any popping or attempt of firing.
It's also possible you have a camshaft/crankshaft/gearcase timing issue.
Duke

[Steve Slocombe]

I'd repeat the starting process on the rear stand rather than the side stand.