Last minute Cannonball prep - 1932 VL

[loch]

Reposted from earlier post on the broken oil nipple.

1932 VL

Had it running yesterday. High Speed needle set to 3 turns, low speed needle set to 2 turns ( realize now this is backwards from Steve recommended in a private message)

1. Idles too fast smokes a lot and is very hot.
2. But it is a rebuild top end.
3. Carburetor drools gas after only two priming kicks with choke closed.
4. Fuel line petcocks still leak after lapping valves.

Today I readjusted the timing (might have been too retarded) and reset the breaker gap. checked the lifter clearance. Dialed in the needles to factory suggested in owners manual.

1. Won't start.
2. Spill gas through carburetor throat with only two priming kicks - choke closed
3. Carburetor coughs when kicking over to start.

Suggestion welcome. In the meantime I'm checking the valve seat, and float. The valve seat should be fine, the float might be too high.

Thanks,
Loch

Inspected carburetor float, measures at 1/4" from lip to top of float when in the up (valve close position). Checked valve seat with simple blow (keep the peanut gallery comments) test - lips to inlet, blow gently and lift the float. Works. Going to float test the float.

[T. Cotten]

Inspected carburetor float, measures at 1/4" from lip to top of float when in the up (valve close position). Checked valve seat with simple blow (keep the peanut gallery comments) test - lips to inlet, blow gently and lift the float. Works. Going to float test the float.

It ain't no joke, Loch,...

Its suck, not blow.

....Cotten
PS: Sorry I gotta ask, but you bubble-tested your intake assembly at a regulated fifteen pounds, right?

That ain't a joke either.

[loch]

Hmm... Okay, well, next time I'll do better. The carburetor is back on the bike already - twice (read below).

Yes I did do the bubble test. I'm considering it again though since I discovered either, the cylinder bolts came loose during yesterday's test run, or, more likely, I forgot to tighten them sufficiently in my rush to get this machine road ready. I discovered the loose nuts when reinstalling the carburetor, after it was already installed. So off it came. Tightened the nuts accept the right front cylinder nut. I need a shorter wrench. I'll either find one at the hardware store tomorrow or I'll chop the 5/8"-9/16" I have because I already have a set that covers those sizes. The nuts weren't completely off, just loose like I could turn them by hand.

Fortunately, yesterday's test run (a standing test run) didn't amount to more than a total of 5 minutes at idle - spread over three attempts.

I've read somewhere that it's good to run an engine with a rebuilt top end for a period of time, to warm up, shut down and let cool completely and repeat this cycle 3 or 4 times. I don't recall Steve mentioning this in his book in the running in section but will check. Regardless, sounds like a good idea - thoughts?

Loch

[Steve Slocombe]

Wow, no pressure then. Depending on the type of carburetor float I'd set it a tad lower. The books also say 5/16 and 3/8" as well as a quarter. I'd run the bike for two or three minutes to warm it through, then shut down and tighten the head bolts. The front cylinder runs hotter and you may get a half turn more with a 9/16 wrench by hand. Don't use the blue teflon head gaskets, which have let down earlier Cannonball riders. Drain the oil and put in three handpumps of fresh, then run the bike again until it gets hot. Check/set idling speed as handbook. Go for a ten mile run, return, drain oil and check volume, fresh oil, another longer run etc until you've covered around 300 miles before the start of the Cannonball. These VLs should be reliable riders but of course better to have started earlier with a fresh engine. Good wishes.

[loch]

Thanks Steve! Not so confident I will cover the 300 miles before the start of the cannonball. It's about 300 miles from house to Virginia Beach. It's possible, if everything goes well over the course of this week that I can finish the break-in using the ride to Va Beach as part of the that break-in. I plotted a course months ago, all secondary roads along the coast to get there. Actual riding time 8-hours.

Yes, I did set the float slightly lower.

- Loch

[T. Cotten]

There is only one proper setting for a proper float, Folks.

If that doesn't work, something's wrong.

....Cotten

[Architect]

I can feel the pressure you are feeling from here, as a Cross Country Chase competitor. I have nothing to add except I wish you all the luck this week during your final preparations. People that have not done it do not get how hard this is, good luck.

[T. Cotten]

Yes I did do the bubble test. I'm considering it again though since I discovered either, the cylinder bolts came loose during yesterday's test run, or, more likely, I forgot to tighten them sufficiently in my rush to get this machine road ready. I discovered the loose nuts when reinstalling the carburetor, after it was already installed. So off it came....
Loch

If your bubble-test was negative with loose nuts, Loch,...

You are not bubble-testing.

....Cotten

[loch]

Tom, I think you posted how to do the bubble test on here somewhere. Could you please link it here so I can see what I'm missing.

Thanks,
Loch

[T. Cotten]

No problem, Loch!

I have it memorized: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

Please use a constant, regulated air supply of no more than fifteen psi, and wait a half a minute for the tiniest leaks to manifest themselves as little white blisters of foam. (No leak is too small to worry about.)

If it leaks at the nuts, hope its just the seals. To test the inlet nipples separately, a large stopper is necessary, as the nuts cover the seam between the nipple and the casting. Good Luck!

....Cotten

[loch]

Thanks Tom!

Baring another bubble test, it's ready for tuning and running in.

As a lesson learned, the issue I suspect was at least two things. First and foremost, restricted flow in the fuel line.

It didn't make any sense to me that I could close the choke, prime it with three or four kicks and no scent of gasoline would waft from the carburetor throat. I recall when I first attempted to start it fuel would appear at the edge of the carb throat with just one kick.

Well, I had so many issues with trying to grind the valves enough to form a proper seal that I switched to modern valves and rubber hoses, "it's not a museum piece, it's a Cannonball Bike."

The adapter nut to go from the fuel filter housing to the hose comes with a rubber gasket seated inside the female connection for the housing threaded male connection. I was so worried about fuel leaks at this point that I over tightened the fitting, compressing the gasket and blocking the fuel flow.

How did I find it? Simple, I knew in the back of my mind that it could only be a flow problem. So I checked flow from the valve to the end of the hose. Good. pulled the filter housing off leaving the connection for the hose in place, tried to blow through the filter, nothing. Well, not nothing. But very little air and with great effort. Hmmm... I pulled the filter out, it was clean as expected. tried to blow through the adapter connection again. Nothing. Unscrewed the adapter and there it was, a blocked passage. As soon as I corrected the problem the bike fired right up as it should and ran as it should when the carb isn't quite dialed in yet. I had the low speed screw set at factory and had to open it a few clicks to get it closer to a steady idle. What sweet sound!

Anyway, tuning not complete yet. Another problem induced by the previous owner, a rubber hose from the breather nut to the primary chain. The original tubing had been cut and a rubber hose inserted without concern for it resting against the exhaust pipe. As soon the pipe heats, the rubber begins to melt and smoke. I cut the rubber off and am waiting for a replacement from Strange Bird Manufacturing.

I'm posting this as a thank you to all of the help on this journey. I got the VL last November. It was a broken-down pieced-together machine. Well, it's still pieced together, but no longer broken down And no longer looks and acts neglected. I am so going to enjoy riding this machine down the road!

Oh, the second issue, might have been a tight primary chain, but even if it didn't contribute, it's corrected. And I know there's oil getting to the primary chain (before I cut the hose) because there's oil droplets sprayed across the tank and on the cardboard I put under the bike during the last test run.

Regards,
Loch

RubberBreatherHose.jpg
The rubber breather hose. Note, the melted-to-the-exhaust pipe part.