1936 RLD Build front/rear wheel/brake options?

[SoCalBrianB]

Good morning,

This is my first post after recently joining AMCA and the site a few months ago. After going to TROG in Riverside, CA last December I decided to find or build a vintage HD in order to participate in future events. I have quite a few older British motorcycles but this will be only my second HD.

I decided to go with a flathead and couldn't find what I was looking for locally. I ended up buying a titled engine and now have embarked on the most expensive way to build a motorcycle. I have an original frame and I beam front end. I am trying to get to roller form and have a few questions for the group around wheel and hub options.


What hub and wheel options do I have for my 1936 frame? I did pick up a spot welded star hub which I believe is a 1943-1957ish timeframe. I don't necessarily need to use it but thought it might be an option.

I am looking at using 18" reproduction K-H wheels but not sure what front and rear hub/brake setup options I can use? It seems the later WL, UL, etc options seem to be plentiful but I don't want to start buying a bunch of parts that won't work for my application. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I have the Johnny Sells book which has been a great resource. Any suggestions for a good spare parts book for this motorcycle?

Thank you,

Brian

[RichO]

On my 1949 WL bob job I used big twin rockers and front brake like the Canadian WLC's with repo kh 19" rim and ATS Firestone. Back repop kh 18" rim and ATS Firestone. Spokes are dusted S.S. with early big twin hubs (Knuckle period). Worked for me.

[SoCalBrianB]

On my 1949 WL bob job I used big twin rockers and front brake like the Canadian WLC's with repo kh 19" rim and ATS Firestone. Back repop kh 18" rim and ATS Firestone. Spokes are dusted S.S. with early big twin hubs (Knuckle period). Worked for me.

Thank you very much for the insight into your solution. It is very helpful!!

[Rubone]

Thank you very much for the insight into your solution. It is very helpful!!

If you have a '36 frame you will need the narrow 45 rear brake, used through '40. And in my experience the BT brake does not work any better than a properly set up 45 half drum brake.
If you need to comply with regulations you might need to remain with H-D stuff. Many AHRMA racers use a BSA front wheel and various generic Japanese (mostly Honda) rears to allow a variety of rear sprockets.

[SoCalBrianB]

If you have a '36 frame you will need the narrow 45 rear brake, used through '40. And in my experience the BT brake does not work any better than a properly set up 45 half drum brake.
If you need to comply with regulations you might need to remain with H-D stuff. Many AHRMA racers use a BSA front wheel and various generic Japanese (mostly Honda) rears to allow a variety of rear sprockets.

Rubone,

Thank you very much for the information. It is very helpful. I started looking for a narrow rear brake and it seems they may be a little more difficult to find. I will verify that I have a '36 frame. Are they narrower than the later frame?

Thanks,

Brian

[Rubone]

Rubone,

Thank you very much for the information. It is very helpful. I started looking for a narrow rear brake and it seems they may be a little more difficult to find. I will verify that I have a '36 frame. Are they narrower than the later frame?

Thanks,

Brian

Yes, the '41 up frame fit the new three bolt gearbox which was wider than the '40 and earlier type. The brake drum was widened to correct the chain line. What does your gearbox look like?

[MMasa]

A 36 frame also does NOT have a mount for a dash. Still uses the -29 style dash that’s mounted to the triple clamp.
Mark

[SoCalBrianB]

Yes, the '41 up frame fit the new three bolt gearbox which was wider than the '40 and earlier type. The brake drum was widened to correct the chain line. What does your gearbox look like?

Thank you Robbie. The frame is set up for a two bolt gear box which I have purchased. I measured the inside diameter of the rear of the frame and it has a measurement of 8 5/8".

What options do I have for the narrow brake setup? Would it be a bolt on drum setup or an integrated hub where the spokes lace directly to the hub? I apologize for all of the basic questions as this is my first adventure into this age of American bikes.

Thanks for all of the information and help,

Brian

[SoCalBrianB]

A 36 frame also does NOT have a mount for a dash. Still uses the -29 style dash that’s mounted to the triple clamp.
Mark

Mark,

Thank you for the additional information. The frame does not have a mount for a dash. I purchased a used set of triple trees that have the mounts for the dash. Slowly this thing is coming together. I will feel better once I get the wheel setups purchased and make it a roller.

Thanks,

Brian

[duffeycycles]

Johnny's book should show the rear brake.It is a separate from the wheel hub.You should have the slant top trans.Another source of parts is Resurrection Cycle Works.

[SoCalBrianB]

Johnny's book should show the rear brake.It is a separate from the wheel hub.You should have the slant top trans.Another source of parts is Resurrection Cycle Works... Duffey Cycles Facebook page has info on 45" trans..1933-1940

Thank you for the additional information. I need to read through that section of Johnny's book again.

I have a little bit later two bolt transmission using the 121-38 case which I hope will work. I need to find some reference information on that transmission to go over it and make sure that it is good to go. I will look at your Facebook page for the additional transmission information.

Thanks everyone for all of the help!! I need to get some pictures uploaded online so that I can share them. I've been a bit lazy about that lately.

Brian

[SoCalBrianB]

Let's see if this works. This is what I started with. Has a couple of broken fins that need repaired but it is pretty complete and turns over. Still has it's three stripe high compression heads. Will add a couple of shots of the cylinders and pistons. Might be able to clean up the cylinders and put new pistons in. Have to do some more measuring and research.

Looks like they soldered the drive sprocket on. Anyone seen this before? No broken mounts which is a huge plus.

Thanks,

Brian

86318BA7-E8DC-4091-8321-F6C10973A55D.jpg

[SoCalBrianB]

0E658390-EA9A-4DC7-9653-1939E874B2C6.jpgRear cylinder:

527890F5-3A99-4172-BBD8-B27C84BAF135.jpg

[SoCalBrianB]

DDF12DA6-1B55-45ED-8350-24D1D2113337.jpgFront cylinder

7D0DFD6B-BBA8-449E-B2C4-CC0FC3E223B8.jpg

[duffeycycles]

There are 3 different versions of the 121-38 transmissions.the '38-'39 use a clutch arm with a pin assy.
The 1940 has spring/ball detente like later trans.
The chain should line up to the stock rear narrow brake assy