'32 VL Dash panel - Switch assembly

[loch]

I have all of the parts to rebuild the dash panel. Looking at Steve's text (page 19-2) the picture doesn't really show how it all goes together. There two insulator plates. I guess one for the top of the base and the other for the bottom so the base switches are insulated from the base?

The base is supposed to be painted? I got mine from Replicant Metals. It appears to be parkerized so I'm not sure if it's supposed to painted. I don't think you paint parkerized metal. The original base is painted. I can't use it because someone cut the center out of it with probably a pair of tin snips (not very well done).

Thanks,
Loch

[loch]

This is the mock up I did with the parts received from Replicant Metals.

I have a couple of questions.

1. This looks like the correct assembly of the contact springs (4559-26 and 4560-29) on the insulator plate (4517-29). Note: the stems are just resting in place - nothing to hold them.

2. In the first picture you can see the clearance between the springs in the off position. In the second picture, after rotating the ignition stem there is still clearance. Note: during rotation the springs did contact each other. But as you can see after completing the rotation they no longer touch.

a. So my question is: do the springs need to be adjusted so they touch when in the ON position? Or is the way they are supposed to work, touching momentarily during rotation?

b. Is the upper contact pad on the light stem supposed to contact the ground spring? I think this is the park position. It appears as though it's supposed to ground - something. The upper contact pad on the light stem is the only thing that comes close to the ground spring, it's close but does not touch.

Orientation: The left side is the ignition switch. The right side is the light switch. The stems are different and have different part numbers. The ground spring is the spring on the lower right. The 4 springs (for ignition and light stems), and the ground spring also have different part numbers. But the ignition and light springs are all shaped similarly. There is only one way to assemble them on the insulator plate and only one way the insulator plate will fit on the base. I used the three holes on the left to orient and configure the springs in their respective positions.



VLSwOFF.jpg

VLIgntnONLtOFF.jpg

[sw48]

Loch,the parkerized surface (phosphate coated) actually helps paint adhere to the surface. After parkerizing the steel part will either be painted or treated with a preservative oil so that rusting is prevented. That is why you can find vintage parkerized NOS Harley parts that were produced many years ago but show little to no rust.

[loch]

UPDATE to the original post and question: Do the contact springs need to remain in contact when the ignition post is in the ON position.

Answer: YES

After studying the diagram (Rider's Handbook 74 and 80 Twin Models, page 29) and the text (31, 32), "...the relay has nothing to do with the ignition system." and when the engine is not running the ignition switch should be moved to one of the OFF positions or the battery will drain through the circuit contact points. In order for the latter to occur the ignition stem springs would need to remain in contact when the stem is in the ON position.

The beryllium spring contacts will need to be adjusted so that when the stem is in the on position they maintain contact to complete the ignition circuit.

Retrospectively, this seems obvious so I hope this will serve as a lessons learned for anyone else rebuilding their switch panel and not having a good example as a starting point.

Best regards,
Loch

[Steve Slocombe]

You definitely need to tweak the contact springs on assembly. That ignition switch looks more square than rectangular, so could need fine adjustment to get it to switch on and off correctly. Note the ammeter ground is clearly on the left, so you can see why 1934-36 dashes with the white face ammeter grounded on the right gave problems.

[loch]

Thanks Steve!

Any idea what the two insulator plates are made of. I cracked mine trying to drill a hole that was missing. Wonder if my bit was just too dull.