'32 VL Hand oil pump operation

[loch]

Montij, I don't recall how difficult is was to install my pump shaft when I first replaced the leathers. I've only done it once, when rebuilding the Sergeant (1932 VL). The pump still offers plenty of resistance when operating. I do recall that the first dozen times operating it I had difficulty with raising the shaft. But I'm not sure if it was just inexperience with the locking notch or because of the new leather or both. You might think about carefully using the pump to see if the leather softens over time. Or wait for someone more experienced to respond, before trimming them.

Regards,
Loch

[montij]

Resurrecting an old thread. Received the leather cup washers from harbour vintage today. Had an unreasonably difficult time installing my hand pump Back into the tank of my 31 VL. The old leathers I removed were much smaller than these and the new leathers required a tremendous force to get fitted. I did oil them ahead of time. They seem to get stuck when the hand pump is pushed all the way down and I have to unthread the pump and Rock it while pulling up very hard to remove the hand pump again.

There may be a trick to this that I’m not aware of. Alternatively these new leathers are just too large.

[loch]

I got the oil pump leathers this week. Going to install them tomorrow. I'm guessing I should lubricate them with a bit of engine oil before installing?

Speaking of engine oil - what weight of modern engine oil should I use in this old machine. I'm guessing a single weight, maybe 50 or lighter since it's cold now? Below 50F most days.

[loch]

Thanks, Knucklehead!

Good information!

I didn't know about the cotter pin, makes sense. I pulled mine apart and there was a thin piece of wire through the hole. It's probably a bad attempt at lock-wiring the screw in place.

[knucklehead 61]

They are leather cups, not rubber. once installed, there is a cotter pin that keeps the screw from coming loose at the bottom. Sean at Competition Distribution has them available.
Also: do not use teflon tape on any of the oil lines. you can use teflon paste, but ez-turn is a far superior product for sealing the threads, flair fittings, petcocks, & intake manifolds.

[loch]

Thanks, Rich, Steve. Makes sense. In that case these are really worn out.

[Steve Slocombe]

Yes they are leather. Harbor Vintage should be getting some in stock.

[RichO]

Most early pump packing were leather not rubber?

[loch]

This oil pump isn't going to deliver 2oz. with each pump. I would be surprised if it did. The rubber pieces (3563-12?), not sure what they're called since the book doesn't list them by name and number - to cross reference the part, they're only listed by part number. I'm hoping I can find the plunger gaskets and rubber pieces (3563-12) separately so I don't have to replace the entire assembly. The rubber on the plunger is worn out.

VLHandOilPumpShaft.jpg


VLHandOilPumpWasher.jpg

[Steve Slocombe]

If you undo the knurled collar in the tank top you can pull out the complete oil pump rod. The base looks like a bicycle pump and is often worn or incorrectly assembled. There is a picture in the VL restoration book. A full stroke of the hand oil pump should deliver nearly two ounces of oil, if you have a measuring jug handy.

[loch]

Update, this morning I was able to extend the hand pump. I also noticed the detent that pins the pump closed. After some studying of the mechanism I came to the conclusion that the knob was just stuck. Most likely from inattention and lack of use. I say this because I recall the detent was already in the groove on the knob. But not knowing how the mechanism worked I didn't realize it. Once freed it locks and unlocks with ease. I think going forward a dab of lithium grease might help keep it from sticking again.

You can see the detent in the second picture if you look closely. Look back at the first pic and you can see the edge of the break in the lower ring of the knob. This break is where the detent fits. Slight pressure to close the pump, then twist so that the detent rides on top of the ring.

After freeing the pump shaft I removed the oil lines for draining and cleaning. Then I cycled the pump without thinking and shot a large blob of oil onto the front fender. Yup! I'm happy to report, the pump functions correctly.


VLOilHandPumpExtended.jpg


VLHandOilPumpDetent.jpg

[loch]

Thanks, Smitty, Joe!

Update: yesterday I mucked around with the hand-pump again. I did unscrew the cap all the way. During this process I periodically rotated the knob with gentle upward pressure to see if the rod would extend. No joy. I ended up with the cap fully off and the rod still locked in the closed position. At this point I think draining the oil through the hand-pump oil line connection and removing the hand-pump is the course of action. I will better understand its operation when I can see the mechanism while I fiddle with it. I'm more interested at this point in knowing whether or not it's broken and whether or not it can form a proper seal when closed.

Joe, there is definitely a technique to applying tape that keeps "excess" from invading the system. If when I reassemble and test, the connections still don't seal I will consider the pipe dope.

[HDSmitty]

The pump rod will pull out for proper operation but sometimes can be very tricky to get into just the right rotation. Its a pretty small notch or whatever that you need to find to enable the rods extraction. Keep at it......it's there, just hard to feel. Sometimes just gentle upward pressure is better than really pulling on it. Good thing, like Steve said, you only really use it to replace the oil after draining the cases. Hope this helps.......Smitty

[joe fxs fxr]

While teflon tape will work, I prefer teflon joint compound, i.e. pipe dope. No worries about excess tape coming loose inside the joint and traveling thru the oil system.

71h1pWK0zqL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

[loch]

Thanks, Steve.

I'm very familiar with Teflon tape. Used it a lot when I was salvage diver in the Navy. We used it to seal the threads on air fittings. A good tool kit should always have a roll.