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Somebody please help me with this clutch hub thing. Contacted the vendor ,no problem great people they are and sent me a new one. Different foriegn manufacturer but now I have the opposite problem. There's no way to get it started on the clutch gear(new or old one) far enough to start the nut. I mean not even an eighth of an inch. I'm thinking of baking it but just don't think I should have to. Should'nt it go on far enough to use the nut to pull it up? Checked it for burrs,rust etc and even cleaned it up with crocus cloth and flitz. No go!
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Start with micing out both of the components to see what the actual interference fit between the two is right now. To tight is bad, to loose is bad. Is your clutch gear oem ? Paps -
I have probably 20 of those hubs and quit selling them because of this problem. If you want to use it, you'll have to hand fit it by fixing the broaching to fit your clutch gear. I believe they were made in France.
I recommend that you get an original used hub....have the raised area where the balls ran, machined flat....install new clutch material and use a Big Fix roller bearing kit. Problem solved and the Big Fix kit will last a lot longer than the balls will.
Kurt
www.45partsdepot.comComment
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Hubs
Paps I've got an oem gear and a repop gear,neither will go on far enough to start the nut. I've also got an original hub that fit s loosely on both gears and has all sorts of play. Is Kurt saying that if I go to the big fix bearings that it will solve my looseness and wobble in the hub? Paps have you heard any thing from Jack H. lately? Sent him acouple notes but no reply. Just hoping he's not ill or down in the back again. ChrisComment
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Chris.......first I have to say I agree with Kurt on the fitting of both components. This is why I asked you what the actual interference was between the two parts. The less you have to file off, the better, in order to obtain a nice smooth interference fit, without the fit becoming a tight press fit. To answer you other question in regards to the big fix roller bearings, I believe what Kurt was trying to explain was the big fix roller bearing kit will stablize the clutch basket to the hub. This kit removes the rocking of the clutch basket which normally occurs with the original style two row ball bearings and cage. The original design with ball bearings run on two separate paths on the bearing races. This path wears into the races on the outer ball bearing path at a much faster rate than the inner row of ball bearings do. The clutch basket tends to lean under torque, load, back lash, clutch engaging, and clutch disengaging. With the big fix roller bearing kit, this problem is completely eliminated because the long roller bearings cover a high percentage more of the bearing race surfaces equally over the entire width of both bearing races. Both components are forced to stay parrallel to each other making for a smoother, less restrictive, lower friction, transition of power between the two components. And yes..........all rocking of the two components is removed also. That is.....Only between the two components. You still need a rgid fit between the clutch gear and hub. PapsComment
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One more comment........I also agree with Kurt on the oem hub solution and big fix roller bearing kit combo. At least with the oem hub, the only wear in the race is the path of the ball bearings. The big fix roller bearing kit does mind that wear. The path created by the ball bearings will only hold lube for the rollers and not interfere with the rollers actions. I would recommend a light regrind dusting over the hub race though. Only because the ball bearing paths may have a slight rise on the sides of each path wear the race material of the the hub has rolled up over the years. Lightly grind dusting the surface of the hub race will remove any high spots that may exist. As I stated....the low ball bearing paths are a plus. The highs are not. PapsComment
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Hubs
Paps I think I'm getting it now. My original hub and gear were in no way a tight fit And do not require any effort to get apart. I'm thinking the best bet is to fit the new hub to the old gear and get the big fix to boot since just using the big fix in my old hub sure won't get it to fit the gear any tighter. Right? Just to make sure I'm gonna put it back together without the ball bearings and prove to myself that it's not my imagination. Thanks loads for the great info. ChrisComment
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Bingo !!
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I am sorry Chris. I missed your Jack H question. No...I haven't heard from him lately. I have seen him in a post or two every now and then. I will give him a call and see how he is doing. PapsComment
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Hub
Paps, A good bit of careful miking and filing got rid of high spots and I have a tight fit to my new gear. (that hub was almost harder than a woodpeckers lips) Odd I was fitting the hub to the old gear and for grins decided to see if it fit the new one. I'm still at it and want to fit the old one because it will save time and money. Since I'm using a new hub I searched for those bearing tracks and rolled edges in the clutch housing and sure enough they'll need attention. Thanks for the heads up. Without guys like you and your experience newcomers like me would be lost. Without knocking any companys is the needle bearing kit (big fix) sold by 45 restoration good? Sure am shy of VT what with all the hits they've been taking. ChrisComment
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Hub
Paps, missed your note on Jack I was searching the net. Sent him a pic of what I had done so far and never heard back. Hope all is well he's a gem and super helpful ChrisComment
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Glad I was able to be of some assistance along with the other folks who helped you out Chris. Kurt at 45 Parts depot sells a good quality set of them. I don't know where 45 Restoration gets theirs at.
I called Jack today but I only got his answering machine. I did leave a message for him to touch bases with everyone. I told him he has us all worried about him. Yes indeedy !! Jack is a Good Man ! His career job may have pulled him away for a spell though. Most of his work involves a lot of traveling. PapsComment
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