“Coach” needed for 1943 WLA War-bike!

[T. Cotten]

That is the proper model, of course, Johnny!

They all seem to lose their Olive Drab paint (its hard to keep it with today's fuels; Or perhaps that is some surviving aluminum paint from earlier productions?), and your small hardware has lost its cadmium plating, but that's all cosmetic.

Its what's inside that counts...

But even if it is perfect, it won't run perfect if the manifold is sucking air.

....Cotten
PS: It can be really hard to keep your float from hanging up on the bowlstem when the bowl is indexed with the valve ninety degrees to the carb body.
It was meant to be under the 'Power' needle, but WLA fuel lines make that quite difficult for many fellows.

[Johnnyf]

This is the top of my carburetor. M88

[Johnnyf]

[T. Cotten]

A vacuum leak is evil, Johnny!

Its usually when the manifold does not seal perfectly, although air can be sucked in at the manifold-to-carb flanges, or even at a sparkplug.

Bubbles show the leaks' exact locations, give an idea how much, and how to fix them. The flanges cannot be bubble-tested, so the manifold should be arbitrarily ground 'flat', and the carb flange lathe-cut:

flangcut.jpg
(Note region around the idle gallery that is always the last to clean up: The gallery stiffens and holds back that part of the flange, while the rest is 'pulled' by fastener stress over the decades.)

No leak is an acceptable leak, and any stone unturned hides something to bite you.

....Cotten
PS: The carb must be removed for bubble-testing the manifold assembly, and then you can inspect it for throttleshaft/bushing wear, throttledisc wear into the casting, bloated float, daylight around a shrunken venturi, etc., etc,... Unfortunately none of these things are addressed in contemporary literature, because they all are the results of eighty years beyond the Army's concern.

[Johnnyf]

Think I need to take the carb off a rebuild it? And what is a “ vacuum leak”

[Johnnyf]

The garage is anything but chilly!

[Johnnyf]

M88 is the number on the top of the carburetor. Trying to figure out how to post photos and video

[T. Cotten]

So one of the biggest problems I’m having ( besides the intermittent leaks/leaking) is once I get it kick started is to keep it running……….I’ve followed all of the pre-start steps and although it doesn’t start after 2-3 kicks , I have been able to get it started. However, keeping it running long enough to hop on and ride it is another story! I open the choke wide open after it starts and then start to fiddle with the throttle and then rotate the “ advance” towards me ……… sometimes the motor responds and most if not all of the time it starts to Idle/ very high and when I try to throttle it down it doesn’t respond or shuts off completely. Although I have been able to restart it, most of the time it won’t restart.
live got the “ slow speed” screw on the carburetor adjusted so that it’s about 2 1/2 full rotations out from the bottom fwiw. I had it started this AM, opened the butterfly choke wide open after running for about 30-60 seconds or so , started the advance rotation towards me to about a quarter of the way. I had some backfire and black smoke but not a lot, it kept running and then started a high rpm with the throttle at about a quarter to half turn up…………..I backed down on the throttle but it just stalled out altogether . At least that’s what I think I remember happening ( again).

No carb will perform correctly with a vacuum leak, Johnny,...

But otherwise, a kitchen-table ""rebuild"" of nearly any model (that will bolt up) should still start and idle easily, when everything else is in order. Carbs are forgiving. Manifolds ain't.

And yours sounds classic.

This doesn't mean you might not have other loose ends, but you will chase your tail unless you go step-by-step,..

....Cotten
PS: You shouldn't even need the choke except to prime, unless its freezing in the garage.

[kitabel]

What number is stamped on top of the carburetor body?

[Johnnyf]

I have the tech manual and have been reviewing/ reading/ making notes since I’ve had the bike. Learning something new everyday I pick it up that’s for sure!

[Johnnyf]

So one of the biggest problems I’m having ( besides the intermittent leaks/leaking) is once I get it kick started is to keep it running……….I’ve followed all of the pre-start steps and although it doesn’t start after 2-3 kicks , I have been able to get it started. However, keeping it running long enough to hop on and ride it is another story! I open the choke wide open after it starts and then start to fiddle with the throttle and then rotate the “ advance” towards me ……… sometimes the motor responds and most if not all of the time it starts to Idle/ very high and when I try to throttle it down it doesn’t respond or shuts off completely. Although I have been able to restart it, most of the time it won’t restart.
live got the “ slow speed” screw on the carburetor adjusted so that it’s about 2 1/2 full rotations out from the bottom fwiw. I had it started this AM, opened the butterfly choke wide open after running for about 30-60 seconds or so , started the advance rotation towards me to about a quarter of the way. I had some backfire and black smoke but not a lot, it kept running and then started a high rpm with the throttle at about a quarter to half turn up…………..I backed down on the throttle but it just stalled out altogether . At least that’s what I think I remember happening ( again).

[Johnnyf]

It’s a ‘42 but manufacture date was late 1943. “My bad”

[Rubone]

Are you calling it a '43 because of the series it is? If it is stamped '43 on the VIN it is bogus, all '42-'45 WLAs are stamped '42.

[PaulCDF]

Welcome Johnny
You may have this but if not it is available in the Club Library WLA.jpg

[T. Cotten]

When all things are in order, Johnny,

They start like a dream, and its something you can look forward to!

Diagnostic #1: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

(I know its an Indian discussion, but HDs often leak in more places.)

....Cotten