‘35VL removing header

[Hdace]

Hi all. I need to remove the header and muffler. How does the header come out of the heads? Looks to be some kind of sealant around the head. What is that? Thanks in advance ✌

[Hdace]

Here’s why I want to remove header ..... seem the relief pipe is leaking on to the exhaust and wish to fix that. I’m concerned too that the relief pipe sits against the exhaust. See pic. Is the correct and if not what do you think is wrong? Seems to me either the relief pipe isn’t installed properly (btw the thread I can see done look good ...flat), relief pipe isn’t bent properly, or the header is wrong, or a relief indentation should be the in the header pipe. Your advise would be appreciated. Thanks✌

[Rubone]

Headers are a push in fit in the cylinders, no sealant was used at the factory. On reassembly many folks use high temp black silicone to prevent air leaks.

[Steve Slocombe]

You need to make sure the front exhaust pipe clamp, that bolts to the right footboard rail, is present and correctly fitted in order to hold the front pipes in place. They are a push fit, as said earlier, and you occasionally see holes drilled in the cylinder outlets where sheet metal screws have been used to hold in the pipes. On your breather pipe, a 1285-33 carb inlet nipple gasket under the nut often does the trick.

[Hdace]

Steve, looks like the proper clamp is in place holding the front header in. Not sure about the relief pipe against the header issue if the headers in correctly? Really don’t want to buy a new header if it isnt necessary. Why do you think the relief pipe is leaning against the header. Thanks you for all it help. Blessings to you.

FYI. Was finally able to take her for a spin for a few laps around the neighborhood. Many issues to figure out thought. Oil coming out of the valve spring covers. Is that a gasket issue? Shifter linkage nut hitting the rear head when trying to shift into 3rd. Pulls a lot to the right. So something up with front suspension. May have a bent spring or two. Handlebars are def bent. Need to rebuild rear brake. Properly alignment rear wheel with axle adjusters. Rear stand doesn’t clip in correctly. Held by zip ties now. Various oil lines have minor leakage staying with the adage VL=very leaky. ☹️ I do enjoy working on my bikes and do get satisfaction from success but I’d much rather be riding.

[HDSmitty]

Welcome to the wonderful world of VL's. As you have now realized, riding them and wrenching on them are not mutually exclusive, but both are a continual joy of owning one of these wonderful machines. In regards to some of the issues mentioned, too much oil (either in sump to begin with or from setting on the oil pump) will cause leakage from valve covers.(which then runs to other places) Steve's book addresses both of these issues and the remedies for them. If you don't have his book....get it , you'll be glad you did. I found the # of pumps of oil to begin with was a lil different for every bike because not every hand pump has the exact same volume delivered. Once you find the correct # of pumps you'll be good to go , mine is about 2 1/2 - 3 pumps. On the engine oil pump I had to turn mine WAY down (in small increments, checking for desired volume in sump after a run) because I too was having much oil .(coming from valve covers and I also thought leak or gasket or whatever). It's easy to get exasperated at times with seemingly endless adjustments. I try to simplify by remembering the knee bone is connected to the shin bone is connected to the ankle bone etc., etc. There may not be any need to remove one part or another until EVERY possibility has been questioned and addressed. Try the relief pipe gasket as Steve mentioned but could the oil have come from somewhere else??? You seem to have made good progress as far as the fuel line fitting goes (from WAY off to just a couple of drips a day) Remember that shift linkage adjustment may affect fuel line fitting and so on and so on. Rear wheel alignment can certainly cause pulling one way or another, or brake adjustment ,or drive chain/primary chain relationship etc. IT'S ALL CONNECTED!!!! and sometimes it'll make ya a lil' nuts trying to get it all in sync. BUT..... when its all good ... its worth the effort and frustration expended ,so RELAX hang in there and you'll get it just fine, it just ain't gonna happen in a day or 2. It's worth it...Hope this helps.......Smitty P.S. Now I'm off to find out why my ammeter needle has decided to detach itself from its anchor point and then reattach it....aaaarrrrrghhhhhh!!!!

[Hdace]

Hi HD Smitty. Thanks for the advice. I do have Steve’s book and did think of check it for the oils issue. Thanks for the reminder. Much appreciated. I am still wonder if the relief pipe should be against the header or not. Curious how others bike are set up regarding the relief pipe. Is there space between the header? Thanks.

[Steve Slocombe]

The relief pipe should not touch the exhaust pipes but, as with many Harley assemblies, it comes very close. Check for spacers in the front exhaust clamp, and that you have the correct centre clamp hung from the brake crossover shaft and located with a pin. Check your wheel alignment before you do too much else, as VLs should be hands-off riders and go straight on the road. Some bikes have the forks bent from earlier incidents, or bent frames, but let's not go there yet. Old fashioned methods still work to check the rear wheel sits straight, with a long piece of taut string or two long wooden or aluminium rods. The shifter linkage needs to be adjusted so you can get both first and third without fouling the rear left gas line and gas tap. Check the shifter tower top bracket is on the right side of the frame, and remove any slop with a set screw in the bottom hex nut connection and Coke can shims in the top shifter tower bushing. Oil from the valve covers means too much oil in the cases, sometimes from a passing check valve in the hand oil pump.