30-36 Vl's

[Chuck#1848]

Pete,
Seeing the photos of Tommos Flight in the states I think the green on the VL's is starting to grow on me to

[Chuck#1848]

My tail lite bracket has stamped on it harley davidson made in usa model 2 is this older than the 30VL?
Have not been able to determine this as of yet

[Tommo]

Chuck
My research suggests that the "Model 1" tail light was fitted to all electric models from 1915 to 1922 and available up until 1924.
1923 and 1924 electric models were fitted with the LK1015A tail lamp which is what I call the "Pig Tail" light because the spring mounting looks a bit like a pig tail. 1925 saw the introduction of the "Model 2" and this continued through until the introduction of the streamline tail light in 1934. The 1921 to 1925 parts book then lists the "Model 2" as the only tail light and suitable for all 1915 to 1925 models. So a Model 2 is just what you need.1925 to 1933
Pretty much all VL sidecars for sale here in NZ are chassis only and the prices reflect how complete they are or are not.
Somewhere in the $250.00 to $1000.00 NZ dollars(170 to 650 USD)at present.
I'm guessing but somewhere about 200.00 to 300.00 NZD should get it to the USA. If you are serious a group of us are coming to the US in 2008 with our bikes so I'm sure we could get a chassis in the container for you and then it might only cost you a few beers.
The "GREEN" that Noel painted his bike is a British Leyland, Rover car colour and the paint code for it was supplied by Steve Slocombe of VL Heaven. After Noel had painted his bike we compared his with some original paint from under the tank overlap on an original paint VL and rest assured a blind man would be pleased to see the difference.
Hope this helps,
Tommo

[Chuck#1848]

Thanks Tommo,

I will most defantly keep the sidecar chassis in mind I do intend to put one on it and really like the idea of the left hand hack but I need to keep the VL moving along first.
The motor is completely apart flywheels to as it looks to me I may need to replace one or both fly wheels due to the heavy rust scale on them.
Trans is likewise in pieces and missing some parts my plan is to complete the trans I have been glass beading some of the brackets,footboards and such and will prime them along with the frame then I could install the trans and other things to be sure that nothing has been removed also seems to be a fair amount of holes drilled in the rear fender I need one of the rear brackets that is rivited to the main fender frame that holds the hinged half of the fender in place..........among other things.

So much fun so little time

[clemson Johnson]

an other VL-aholic

There are three of us here in Brattleboro that ride VLs, Charlie's is a resto, Stanley's is original crusty, and mine is a custom bobber. We have lots of parts and info.I have done some semi extensive motor-mods and would be more then happy to lend some advise. You will certainly save yourself a lot of money and time if your not looking for a points perfect restoration. As long as your careful not to do things that are irreversable, you can always slowly collect the proper part and build it for judging latter. They are wonderful machines, handling is on par with the scout 101. Low maintanence and great vibe.
Good luck.

[clemson Johnson]

rusty flywheels no problem

PUR makes a wonder solution that removes rust. look for cracks,especially around the taper. I have also had to lap the tapers before to be able to true them up. They sell pretty resonable on ebay but I would suggest working with what you have first.

[Chuck#1848]

Thanks Clemson

I don't intend to make it drop dead perfect but would like it to look good for the money going in to it.
I also thought about making it a bobber but want to follow thru with the sidecar.

I picked up a trans for parts on e-bay and have it all apart except for the shaft with the slider gears on it can't seem to get the bearings and threaded halves apart from the trans housing.
The book says that it should all come out the right side ( kick starter side) it don't seem to want to come apart.

As for the fly wheels if they were fenders.............there would be some good size holes in them I will keep it in mind about the cracks around the tapers thanks for the sugestions.

[erl]

I have a 1936 vld. It was painted in the seventies but never restored.It runs and goes down the road really good. The only pieces missing are the toolbox and speedo.

[Steve Slocombe]

Going back to Chuck's original question, there are about 700 VLs on the worldwide VL Register, out of a total of 44,000 built. As the Register is run out of Australia, I guess it under-reports US bikes, where owners may be reluctant to give out engine numbers. Probably half the 'bikes' on the Register are just engine cases, bottom ends or motors reported in from swap meets, so there's still plenty of wrenching required to get them back on the road.

[HarleyCreation]

I had a 1931 VL that I bought for $30 (rolling basket with no fenders). It sat for 10 years in my dad's basement and I finally got it running around 1982 with the help of my infant nephew who would sort of half-stand in one of those little walker swing-things for tots and bang wrenches that I gave him against the side of the VL. I thought that would give him a life-long interest in motorcycles but it didn't work.

Put 1934 style fenders on it. Went down to Hansen Honda (the other Racine Hansen named Ichabod) and bought two used 4x19s for $5 each (I think they're on there still).

Then I rigged a sidecar chassis (EL/FL model) to it and used it for winter riding around town and out to the university. I NEVER got used to that total-loss oil system or the hand-pump technique.

It scared me!

Later when I was hard-up for funds I sold 31VL to my brother Tom who still has it and is SLOWLY restoring it.

[Steve Slocombe]

Nice story! I've heard of people buying these bikes in the US and Australia for a few dollars from the 1950s up. It is a well engineered bike that takes a lot of use (and abuse) and can still be restored essentially back to factory specifications. The total loss/once through oiling is the same for every Harley built until the '36 knuck, so why do the VLs take all the blame? The hand oil pump was a relic by 1930, and used only for putting fresh oil in the cases after they have been drained. If you use the hand pump for regular riding the engine cases soon fill up and the bike runs hot and heavy. The VLs did not get chopped like the panheads, and are still way underpriced compared to the knuckleheads. A VL weighs 220 pounds less than a current Heritage Softtail Classic, and that 74 cubic inch flathead pulls like a freight train. I think it's the oldest Harley you can ride every day in modern traffic, plus you get that fabulous Art Deco styling that Harley keeps coming back to. I'm a big fan - but you all know that.

[Chuck#1848]

Thanks for the replys I plan to get it road worthy in a couple of years the more that I learn about these bikes the more I like them.
Then it will need a sidecar

[Jim]

I have a 30 VL with a 34 sidecar, and a 36 VLH. Both are what I like to call restored, but they are really very nice riders. Some of my parts that should have been parkerized, I just painted flat black. OR, some parts should have been cadmium or chrome, and I just painted them silver. These look good, and saved me time and lots of money, but they are "Points" killers in the judging deptartment. I knew I wasn't going to go for that... 100 point resto because I wanted to ride them. Although I don't ride them much, I still love it when I do. I don't go too far either as I am not into any local clubs, and I don't have any "antiquers" to ride with. Still... they are a blast to ride around town. I love shifting and having people watch me wondering... what is he doing?? I have rode them up to the local H-D dealer, and I am really surprised that most guys just walk past it, because they are in a hurry to go look at that '05 model with all the chrome...

Jim

[Chuck#1848]

Jim,

I recently purchased a parkerising kit to recote some parts that I have glass beaded I made a stainless tank at work for the solution to boil in and I also have used a silver heat paint for some of the "cad" parts.
Not looking for a points bike either but want it to look good also am planing to install a sidecar to the VL.