1936 VLD Carb support bracket

[NCriding]

My 36 VLD bit-sa project does not like the re-pop carb support bracket. The float bowl nut is fastened tight, yet the bottom is too low for the support bracket to fit. I believe the Linkert M41 is correct.

The float bowl measures 1.942" top to bottom. Do I have the wrong float bowl, and if so what is the correct distance top to bottom?

[MMasa]

I know that an M41 is correct for a 1936 RLD.
Not sure about a VLD.

[aumick10]

I am far from a carby expert, but that body looks like it could have a bowl that doesn't have a threaded plug above the float needle.
The flat machined surface on the bottom of the body and what looks like two dowel holes on the sides to locate the bowl.

I think I have one somewhere. If i can find it I will measure it.
Cheers

[Steve Slocombe]

You're pretty close. The original bowls are about 49 mm deep, but the early repros needed a couple of mm skimmed off to fit. The original top bowl gasket was thin paper, while the post-1936 ones are thicker. Also check the crush gasket at the bottom is thinned by being well tightened down.

[26fhead]

Mine did not like the repo bracket so I made one, same problem too tall. Mine is a 36 VD M41 Cotton carb and intake.

Steve

[Jim]

I'm curious on the serial numbers.... so, looking at these photos made me wonder. Do all serial number run in sequence no matter what model it is? For example, could you have serial number 36VL1234 and then another bike be 36VLD1235 then 36VLH1236? OR were all models be run together? Just wondering...

Nice clean looking carb and engine NCRiding!!

[T. Cotten]

NCRiding!

Its obvious from the copper bowl cap, bare pivot screws, and smooth-textured (with pimples) bowl, its got repop disease.

So a poor fit is to be expected.

Welcome to the real world of vintage motorcycles!

....Cotten
PS: I'll bet the hex on the LS lift pivot bolt is 25/64"?

PPS: From my notes, repop Linkert bowls are often much taller than OEM, which average 2.970" or so, depending upon the crush of the ages.
Just chuck it in the lathe and trim it, just as any and all should be cleaned up a little anyway.
And the pivot should be ½" below the top deck; That's not hard to cut, either, but you aught to check that before you whack an eighth off the bottom.

PPS: Folks,
It saves some tailchasing if the manifold is aligned to the carb upon its support, before it is snugged enough to then remove the carb, and bubble-test.
That would at least give any repop bowl a fighting chance.

[NCriding]

Cotten,
The copper bits are my fault, I purchased a rebuild kit and did not know they needed Nickel, but I can handle that. Don't know the history on the bowl as it came with the "bike in a box" kit. A before picture of the carb is attached.
IMG_0456.jpg
The "hex" is actually a round screw, at 25/64." Why is that significant? I don't have a clue.
The pivot centerline is slightly lower than 1/2" so I won't take anything off the top, just the bottom. It might be exactly 1/2" with the gasket, but didn't think to measure it that way. Picture of that measurement too!
IMG_0739.jpg
Your point on the manifold was well taken, so I loosened it up, attached the carb and still couldn't get that bracket in there - not by a long shot. But when tightened it all back up I did visually square it up a bit better. Will rerun the leak test in the AM.

[NCriding]

Thank you Steve, will do!

[Steve Slocombe]

To answer Jim's question, yes that's the way VL engine numbers run, with the different models interleaved in the Big Twin number series. The small twins would have a separate series, so 35VLD1234 and 35RLD1234 would still be OK. You can see this in the VL Register, which records the 1200 or so VL engine numbers collected over the last 20+ years, where occasionally two consecutive surviving serial numbers are from different models, eg VD and VLD.

[T. Cotten]

Its a fat hex in your second pic, NCRiding!

The bolt that the lowspeed pivots upon, when you work the choke.
(It should be a 3/8" hex.)

Your bowl didn't originally use a gasket, and repops are fat for later M53s and such.
(I punch thin paper ones for modern hygiene, and a few thou in float height shouldn't be that critical, as long as it is reasonably "square" to the top.)

Kits always have crap you don't need, or crappy in other ways.
(Its where vendors hide their 'seconds'.)

....Cotten
PS: I'd post a pic, but the vendor isn't here to defend himself.

[26fhead]

NCriding

PM sent

Steve

[Jim]

To answer Jim's question, yes that's the way VL engine numbers run, with the different models interleaved in the Big Twin number series. The small twins would have a separate series, so 35VLD1234 and 35RLD1234 would still be OK. You can see this in the VL Register, which records the 1200 or so VL engine numbers collected over the last 20+ years, where occasionally two consecutive surviving serial numbers are from different models, eg VD and VLD.

That is interesting! Thank You Steve!