Value of a 1937 Harley UL 80? Starting a business and need some capital...

[46EL]

I am in central CT 06424 and will gladly come over and help you figure out exactly what you have and what it is worth.
Then you can decide if it is worth selling as one lot or parting it out.
As far as bringing the bike back to life in barn find condition and making it all 1937??
Rebuild motor and trans $5 to 6K, sheet metal including correct tanks $4 to 5K, Dash and gauges $2-3K easy, footboards 3 to 5 hundred, cycleray a grand, 18 inch wheels all rebuilt with redone hubs and new roadworthy tires $2K, 9 bolt horn, oil tank, toolbox another 2-3K$ etc etc etc. So buy the bike at 25K$ and put another 20 to 25K+$ into it including parts, hardware and labor and what do you have and what is it worth at that point? PM me and send me your phone number if you want me to look at it. . 46EL

[46EL]

List on ebay, you will get the best offer, my guess is $13.5k in present state.

If you have the original tanks, fenders, wheels, handlebars it would bring more.

Just the motor and frame if it is in fact an original 37 frame are worth 15K$ all by themselves.
Throw in the springer and if it is 37 now we are up to $20K. And from what I saw on ebay the trans if it also is 37 now we are up to what he has been offered for the whole package. The handlebar risers on the bike now are worth what the original 37 bars are worth if you had them. If the speedo works and hasn't been opened and the rear brake backing plate is 37 only add another 2-3K$. Clutch pedal original rear stand, original 3 rivet chainguard worth another couple of thousand??$$$. Saddlebags, spotlights, cheese graters etc$$$$ ..Tanks and rear fender $$$$$+++++ .....Sorry 1950Panhead" Do the math? Maybe double your estimate of 13.5$? Need I say more? 46EL

[exeric]

Looks like a later inline 'straight' fork and not the kicked forward rigid fork which would have been on a '37.

[Kozy]

Looks like a later inline 'straight' fork and not the kicked forward rigid fork which would have been on a '37.

No outside grease zerks for the spring rod bushings, no bosses for the grease zerks on the rockers and the position of the front brake cable clamp mounting screw are consistent with the '37 fork.

[exeric]

You're right about those points, Kozy, and that would be right for an early fork, but they still look too straight. Maybe it got bumped.

[1950Panhead]

Sorry 1950Panhead" Do the math? Maybe double your estimate of 13.5$? Need I say more?

You can be sorry and think whatever you like, this is not a 20k bike, not even close.

[46EL]

You can be sorry and think whatever you like, this is not a 20k bike, not even close.

you are right, NOT a 20K bike, but probably 30K in parts if the frame and trans are both 37. Like I said, do the math....
It is what it is. Even though it is a flathead a lot of it is Knucklehead also. And NOTHING brings the money 1930's Knuckle stuff does right now. 46el
PS; And I have nothing to be sorry about.....
and after looking at the trans a little closer I see a later style kicker arm and no breather on the kicker cover.
Next question is with the very late 37 VIN which version is the springer? Late 37 or 38??
That's why it needs to be physically looked at. Still worth a good quarter all day long anyways........

[govmule84]

Well, I'm no help, but reading some of the threads makes me a little bummed.

So I'll give you an unsolicited opinion. Yep, that ain't all correct. Wouldn't bother me one bit, personally. It's cool and old and finding all those pieces, even if not correct, sure wouldn't be easy or cheap. I'd be proud to build that and ride it. I think some of these fellas who have great stashes and access to parts underplay the value of simply having all the pieces (that work, even if they are "wrong") there to repair and renew and bolt together.

Color me jealous. Good luck with the business venture!

[Beinggodisgreat]

So basically just part the entire thing out to get the most value is what everyone is saying.

[govmule84]

So basically just part the entire thing out to get the most value is what everyone is saying.

I think that's a yes with a caveat. To pull every last dollar out of it, that's the way to go, for sure. But remember while a lot of it is good stuff and will sell, you'll be sitting on at least a few items before they move at top dollar.

That's just my opinion, though. That and a buck-fifty will get you a coffee down at the diner.

[T. Cotten]

So basically just part the entire thing out to get the most value is what everyone is saying.

Someday, god,...

I will have to part out a small herd of machines.

That's called Exit Ebay,

And why I don't worry that I can never live long enough to assemble them.
Just if my estate will have the keyboard time!

....Cotten

[Beinggodisgreat]

I am going to list it tomorrow and see what it'll fetch in 3 days.

[govmule84]

I am going to list it tomorrow and see what it'll fetch in 3 days.

Good luck on the sale and the business venture.

[kitabel]

you'll be sitting on at least a few items before they move at top dollar.

The good stuff will go immediately, and some part of the additional return (over selling it as a bike) will be on your shelf for years.
You also get to have all of the fun of packing it up, and waiting at the Post Office. Done it, don't like it.

[Steve Little]

I think it may well be the original 1937 Frame, that was upgraded with the factory-recommended tab welded on the left rear axle hanger to keep the rear brake arm from falling out of its retaining slot, as shown in this pic. In 1938 that fix, "recall" was issued from Milwaukee, and many 37's got it.

The front lower tank mount is electrode welded instead of brazed. If the frame and engine are an original set, then Harley had started using the frame that is commonly associated with 1938 which also had the axle clip cap.