WLC gearbox rebuild

[Rowdy]

I'm just rebuilding my gearbox on my 1942 WLC. I've shimmed the main shaft and I've got .005in end play and put a feeler gauge between the 2nd gear and 2nd gear retaining bracket and its .006in, with the shaft in it's normal position, which I think would be with the spring pushing it out. Is this correct, because I've been following the YouTube videos of Tatro Machine and he seems to have a lot bigger gaps and he pushes the main shaft in to get the clearance between the 2nd gear and the retainer. Who is right?

[Paps]

Read this pasted link topic thread. Topic is wla but gearbox is the same for wlc. You will need to scroll through the pages to find the trans building part. You can also email me direct for a PDF file on the gearbox building.

http://forum.sscycle.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12410

[RCamp]

Rowdy,
With the main shaft pushed in and all the spacers in place, second gear should be as close as possible to the retaining bracket without touching it.
This will allow more positive shifter clutch dog engagement in 2nd and high while not allowing second gear to scrub the bracket if the main shaft thrusts in that direction.

[Rowdy]

Thanks for the replies, I wasn't sure if the main shaft should be pushed in against the spring to adjust the 2nd gear gap, it doesn't say anything in my workshop manual. Under normal running conditions with the gearbox sprocket fitted, surely the main shaft would be out.

[Architect]

Thanks for the replies, I wasn't sure if the main shaft should be pushed in against the spring to adjust the 2nd gear gap, it doesn't say anything in my workshop manual. Under normal running conditions with the gearbox sprocket fitted, surely the main shaft would be out.

Take a look at the link that Paps provided to you, it is what many of have used as the Bible for rebuilding 45 transmissions. I used his write up while double checking some stuff with Palmer. Also, Mr Camp knows what he is talking about, you got the right people to respond to your thread. Good luck.