VL primary oil

[Grumpa]

Okay so all of a sudden I have what seems to be massive over oiling to the primary. IMG_1799.jpg The only thing I've changed is the oil IMG_1101 (1).jpg. So before I tear into the "oil pump" (which is in effect an oil metering device) I'd like to get some thoughts from you guys.

[HDSmitty]

You can adjust the amount of oil directed to the primary by removing, (for less) or adding, (for more) the washers behind the adjustment screw located at the bottom (near center, left to right)of the pump body. Additional things can also be done but try this first. I ended up with 0 washers on mine. At least that's the procedure for on my 36. Earlier pump designs may have a different way to do it, Check Steve Slocombe's book, 1930-1936 Harley Davidson Big Twins - Buying Restoring and Riding a VL. A wealth of valuable information from THE expert on these bikes. You can also check the Riders Handbook. Also, in looking at your pictures , possibly this is a leak from the transmission seals? Just a thought since it seemed a little to far to the rear, and they are known and prone to leak. (Mine do) Harley straight 50w or 60w is the recommended lubricant for both engine and transmission and I'm not familiar with the oil your picture shows, No I'm NOT starting an oil thread here!!!! Good Luck. Hope this helps. Smitty P.S. Remember, VL stands for Very Leaky!

[frichie68]

^^^ What Smitty said, check tranny oil level. I went with a sealed bearing in my transmission and that took care of almost all the oil on the garage floor. I have run 50W Valvoline racing oil in my '35 VLD for the past 15 years with no problems.

[Grumpa]

You can adjust the amount of oil directed to the primary by removing, (for less) or adding, (for more) the washers behind the adjustment screw located at the bottom (near center, left to right)of the pump body. Additional things can also be done but try this first. I ended up with 0 washers on mine. At least that's the procedure for on my 36. Earlier pump designs may have a different way to do it, Check Steve Slocombe's book, 1930-1936 Harley Davidson Big Twins - Buying Restoring and Riding a VL. A wealth of valuable information from THE expert on these bikes. You can also check the Riders Handbook. Also, in looking at your pictures , possibly this is a leak from the transmission seals? Just a thought since it seemed a little to far to the rear, and they are known and prone to leak. (Mine do) Harley straight 50w or 60w is the recommended lubricant for both engine and transmission and I'm not familiar with the oil your picture shows, No I'm NOT starting an oil thread here!!!! Good Luck. Hope this helps. Smitty P.S. Remember, VL stands for Very Leaky!

Lmao As my dear departed Dad used to say "If all else fails, read the directions". I have the Slocombe Bible and of course the handbook and will be going adjusting as necessary. But an "adjustment" is compared to previous findings and this bike has always operated fine. It never left a trail of oil before with one exception; when the engine case oil drain valve cork washer failed, since replaced and is clearly not the case.

So here's some additional information; it's been on the bench over the last year so while I've been going through the front end, wheels and brakes. I'm suspecting oil getting past the tank check valve, collecting in the crankcase and blowing out the breather to the primary. Not sure that's even possible, but what do you think?

[Grumpa]

^^^ What Smitty said, check tranny oil level. I went with a sealed bearing in my transmission and that took care of almost all the oil on the garage floor. I have run 50W Valvoline racing oil in my '35 VLD for the past 15 years with no problems.

I'll check but this isn't a static leak, but I've been running a "stand in" tranny and when I go through the original I'll go with some modern upgrades. The picture was after it was just taken off the bench and run up the street and parked. I'm pretty sure this was coming from the engine not the tranny.

[Grumpa]

So I think my next course of action is to drain the crank case, put in the instructed amount and take it from there. I shall report my findings my brothas but if I get another oil trail, (however useful it might be for finding my way home) I'm leaning toward the check valve. Once I verify that's good, there can't be anything else but adjusting the pump. I think I've identified all the variables. Am I off base here? Insane for not just dialing the pump down in the first place? I gotta admit that would be way easier.

[Grumpa]

Drained the crank case: IMG_1800.jpgIMG_1802.jpg and it's way more than the "a pumpful of oil into the motor with hand pump" as indicated by the book. Could be over oiling by the pump of course but I think I've found the issue. After sitting for a year the oil leaked past the check valve and here I am. I shall report further.

[frichie68]

Mine wet-sumps occasionally, easy to notice when it belches smoke and oil squirts from the header pipes..... Quite likely a check valve. There are 2, one in the mechanical pump, 1 in the hand pump. Mine doesn't do it often so I haven't attempted to fix it.

[Steve Slocombe]

Yes, it's good to consider separately the hand oil pump and mechanical oil pump when chasing down VL oiling problems. The bikes run with around 150-200 ml, say 6 or 7 ounces of oil in the cases, and any more comes out of the breather, valve covers or generator. The usual problem with bikes not used regularly is oil passing the hand pump check valve into the cases, then being blown out when the bike is first started. Disconnect the hand oil line to check, then lap in hand pump seat, replace spring and ball etc to fix. On the mechanical pump, this is meant to pump in about 3-5 ml per mile to make up losses and hold the crankcase oil quantity. Today most VL engines are freshly rebuilt, with oil rings on the pistons and the chain oiler turned down low or off, so the bikes will overoil at the factory marked pump settings. First check the oil pumps are set correctly, just wide open with throttle wide open, then trim back the mechanical oil pump a bit at a time as you gain experience going for a ride then draining the crankcases on return. I find the pumps OK at 4-6 mm, say just under a quarter inch on the low side of the factory settings, but these will be well used components so you need to figure out the settings yourself. Of course oil is cheap compared to engine rebuilds, so I don't mind cases slowly filling over a day.

[Grumpa]

There are 2, one in the mechanical pump, 1 in the hand pump. Mine doesn't do it often so I haven't attempted to fix it.

Rich, I forgot about the one in the mechanical pump or "oiler" as the book calls it, another variable I forgot. thanks man!

[Grumpa]

The usual problem with bikes not used regularly is oil passing the hand pump check valve into the cases, then being blown out when the bike is first started. Disconnect the hand oil line to check

Steve, that was exactly the case. I disconnected the line and found a steady leak. Replaced the check valve with a stand in until I can get this one fixed. Tested and checked good so far, here's a pic of the trail prior to replacement: IMG_1804.jpg Now no trail and no puddle after sitting for an hour:IMG_1805.jpgIMG_1806.jpg Honestly I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't drain the crankcase and put in the correct amount of oil before I took it out but my only excuse is that I was too excited about getting it on the road after being on the bench for a year.

[Grumpa]

Today most VL engines are freshly rebuilt, with oil rings on the pistons and the chain oiler turned down low or off, so the bikes will overoil at the factory marked pump settings. First check the oil pumps are set correctly, just wide open with throttle wide open, then trim back the mechanical oil pump a bit at a time as you gain experience going for a ride then draining the crankcases on return. I find the pumps OK at 4-6 mm, say just under a quarter inch on the low side of the factory settings, but these will be well used components so you need to figure out the settings yourself. Of course oil is cheap compared to engine rebuilds, so I don't mind cases slowly filling over a day.

As far as I can tell, this engine has never been apart. It doesn't smoke (unless some moron has started it with a crankcase full of oil due to a leaky check valve) and I've had it for at least 25 years. All that to say you are providing insights that I never would have considered and that's why I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. We're not worthy lol.

[Steve Slocombe]

Thanks for the nice words. I can't think of any other 80+ year old bike that is so much fun as an every day rider.

[riggpigg]

It took me 2500 miles to get my VL set up to satisfaction. By the time I finished the 14 CB it was using a gallon of oil per 850-900 miles and getting 33MPG on fuel. When I started I had oil coming outa everywhere. I just kept taking washers out and adjusting the Throttle actuated setting on the oil pump. I would allow around a hundred miles or so for it to "Clean out" before adjusting again...by the time I had 4000 miles on her, she was perfect. I had several guys advising me along the way. John Stanley, Robert Hernandez, and Rich Duda were very helpful. I still ride her on occasion and it never lets me down. I was told VL meant ''very lubricated". I believe it means "Vibrating Lightly".......

[Jim]

I was told VL meant ''very lubricated". I believe it means "Vibrating Lightly".......

HAHA!! I like that!