Tweet
OK, here goes. I bought a 32 VL basket case at Jefferson last month, I'd say 85% to 90% is there but completely tore apart except for the tranny and clutch. I'm going to try and show you progress as I go along, we will see how it goes. I have already sandblasted the frame and most of the parts, I have torn the tranny apart and cleaned everything and will rebuild it when I gather up the money for parts. So for start here is a picture of a pile o parts. See you later.
-
-
I was missing a front fender valance so I used the one I had for a pattern and since it wasn't that nice I will make two, I got to try out my bead roller for the first time, took a while but I got it working. Tomorrow I will make the other valance. The fender has some rust holes and extra drilled and punched holes that need repaired. -
The valance looks great. What other equipment did you use besides the bead roller, or was it done by hand? Look forward to seeing your progress.Bob Rice #6738Comment
-
I have a 30" shear and a 4' break and I did a lot with a body hammer and dollys.Comment
-
NICE work on that valance! I remember those days using a dolly and body hammer too!! I look forward to reading your BUILD progress!Jim
AMCA #6520Comment
-
One thing to be careful of is the gas/oil tanks. They are silver soldered and are prone to leaking at the seams or the oil/gas partition in the left tank may leak. Also the bungs for the petcocks may come off. I have had all sorts of issues with these and Indian tanks over the years and it can be troublesome to get them not to leak. You think you have it and a leak pops up some where else. You look like you have metal working skills so I would assume the knowledge to go with it. If not then I would recommend a set of tanks from Replicant Metals right there in Lancaster especially if you intend to ride it much. They won't leak and they bolt right up with no work needed. Also pin holes is a problem with older tanks. Looks like most if not all of it is there so a good start to a nice VL. I have 3 and love them and I'm sure you will too. Another thing to check is the hubs and spline fit to the brake drums. This was a weak area of design and to date no one make repair or replacement parts. On very rare occasions you can fin NOS replacements for the brake drum portion but hubs are nearly impossible. Rat at Harbor Vintage is also a good source along with Steve Slocomb and Tom Feeser at Replicant. Good Luck!
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766Comment
-
The only way that I know of is to either completely unsolder and start over or unsolder and weld, Tom is cheaper IMO. I haven't gotten to the hub's per se except to sand blast.Comment
-
I agree on the tanks Tom makes. On the hubs, since yours should be short spline you may be able to find long spline ones that will last somewhat longer. I buy hubs when ever I can find ones in decent shape just to have on hand. Tried to talk Tom into making either the hubs or the rivet on brake splines but no luck so far.
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766Comment
-
My back hubs appear to be real tight.Comment
-
That is good as it means you should have a lot of life left in them!
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA#12766Comment
Comment