I am only getting 1& 1/16" of movement of the throttle cable on my 42 WLA. This is not enough (apparently) to operate the throttle from stop to stop. The carb is a brand new, surplus Linkert M-88. If I set the cable to provide wide open throttle at full counter-clockwise of the grip, the throttle plate is slightly open when I return the grip to fully closed. Is this correct? The engine has not been started yet (surplus un-numbered replacement), so I have no idea if the factory idle screw setting is correct. Both the throttle and spark advance cables have the same 1&1/16" throw. This is my first WLA project, and your collective expertise is greatly appreciated!
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Throttle cable movement... not enough! WLA/Linkert
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CycleFarmer!
Taking this one step at a time, the carb end is easy to assess: The throttle disc should be fully open, parallel to the bore when the lever is against its stop on the carb body.
If not, please adjust the lever at its pinch screw. Take care not to completely flatten the spiral spring beneath it.
The idle screw should be backed out to inspect that the disc is indeed centered with as little daylight around it as possible when fully closed, and then just a turn or turn and a half after contact with the body stop should be a good place to start the machine.
The wire should be clamped into the cable block where it opens the disc fully, but does not bow or spring when the grip is turned further.
This should maximize travel to close the disc, which is far more important.
Back to the cable/wire itself, it is not uncommon for the cable sheath to slide within the handlebar if the set screw did not catch the 'spool' correctly. Its been years since I played with a military, but the set screw is often beneath a switch housing on other models.
Let us know what you find,
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 08-06-2016, 01:34 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Thanks for the tips, Cotten. I did find that the cable sheath protruded too far into the spiral, not allowing full travel of the slide. The set screw is indeed on the bottom of the handlebar (no switch housing in the right side). I removed the set screw, slid out the sheathing and spool, and "unscrewed" the sheathing until it was nearly flush. Re-assembled and BOOM! Works fine!
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Your are certainly welcome, CycleFarmer,..
I don't guess right often!
But it concerns me that the spiral cable sheath can be easily screwed through the spool.
Its been years and years, but I thought they were either soft-soldered or somehow crimped secure.
I defer to others for chassis tips,
....CottenAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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