I got some cases today, a matched pair of 1933 VE cases. I don't know much about the VE other than it is a solo with different pistons. My books do not cover them well. One case is pitted worse than I expected, but I have seen worse in general. The main problem I have is the support in the middle has one fin cracked out of it. My local Harley machinist says this may affect the integrity of the motor and I should look for better cases. Here are some pics of the pitting and the fin. Can/should I fix these or keep looking? Thanks.
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Condition of 1933 VE cases, useable or not?
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I'd talk to a good welder first. The cast in web repair doesn't have to look good since it will be under the primary cover, and again, a good welder should have no problem putting a new web in there without warping the case. Also, that is a beefy area so I wouldn't worry about it, if you chose not to have a new web welded in. As for the pitting, again, talk to a good welder. That is on the bottom of the motor and not easily seen when the sidebars, primary cover, and linkage are all in place. The '33 VL is arguably, the best looking VL so I think those cases are well worth saving.Eric Smith
AMCA #886
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Thanks, I will call around and find someone who can do this. I was going to fill the pits with Metal Glaze since they do not go all the way through. I plan to put Gyptol on the insides too. I worry since it is old cast aluminum that it won't like being welded to but I figure a good welder should be able to tell.
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Dear Cody, the VE is a one-year-only model for 1933 with standard compression, T-manifold, and magnesium alloy pistons. Only about 2000 bikes were made that year, the worst of the Great Depression, so they should be sought after. Also you have that one-year Art Deco bird or eagle decal on the tank, so popular on Harley coffee mugs, and the first year of five colour options. As the company was losing money, family owned, and a dollar was a dollar, I suspect the magnesium pistons came from the 'first 1930' bikes recalled as being noisy and replaced with iron pistons. Of course I have absolutely no proof of this. Clearance on these pistons was 18 thousandths, wow!
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Cody,
Talk to Arno St. Denis in MD. he can fix them with welding and replace the pitted sections and you will never know they were suspect. He advertises in the club mag for pan head exhaust port repair but he does excellent work on cases!
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766
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I used to do quite a bit of case welding years ago (I don't anymore). The pitting should not be filled with a filler as the strength is compromised by the surface loss. A guy who does case repair routinely would know this stuff, but here are my suggestions; Slowly fill in the pitted areas allowing each small welded area to cool a bit as you proceed. Also, It's important to do this with the cases bolted together to minimize, or most likely eliminate the possibility of any significant warping. Heat stress can also be minimized by slowly heating the bolted case assembly to about 350 degrees before any welding. A kitchen oven would work fine, but working an Oxy-Acetylene torch evenly over the case assembly is fine as well. After the welding is completed, allow the case assembly to cool to room temperature before disassembling. The web repair is an easy fix, but again, should be done with both cases bolted together, pre-heated and allowed to cool afterward before disassembly. Also, I would weld in a piece of high-strength aluminum here, rather than impose the additional heat stress associated with building up the new web stiffener with repeated weld passes.Last edited by billpedalino; 06-04-2016, 06:19 AM.Bill Pedalino
Huntington, New York
AMCA 6755
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