shift gate quandry

[DCoul]

Apologies if this is posted twice. Don't see prior post.

I have a 52-73 servicecar transmission, 3 speed w reverse.

My tanks are 1947 type and up.

Can I use the 3 speed only shift gate, no reverse? I don't need the reverse since my bike is a WLA engine. 1951 frame.

I know the numbers will be backward, I'll have to get creative with that. Just wondering if the slots in the gate, will match up. Does the 3 speed gate just have a shorter thow? Leaving out the reverse?

Thanks everyone!

[Rubone]

'47 through '73 all use the same shifter pattern. So you either have some earlier stuff or you just didn't know. A '52 3&R used with a '47 3 speed gate works fine and just blocks out reverse.

[DCoul]

Thanks Rubone.
Per Palmers book, with the 11 screw top tranny cover, lack of numbers on it's backside, and 11/32" hole in the shift lever (hopefully not drilled out) and 3,2,1,N,R front to back on the tranny shift lever means its 1952-1973 servi-car tranny.

I see now know why you guys recommend that book.

[Clutchgear]

You can replace the shift drum and remove the reverse gear and you are set. Easier sad than done.

[RCamp]

As Robbie said, just install a 3 speed gate, your shifter lever on the tranny will not hit the screw on the lid, even with the bolt and nut.

That forward position is for reverse and with the proper shifter gate the shifter lever on the tranny will not move that far forward.

[DCoul]

Thanks RCamp. It's almost time to pop the lid on the tranny to see what it looks like in there. This bike sat a lot so it has rust here and there. Hopefully not in the tranny. It was, I think, closed up. The engine had the cam cover adjar so it go a little moisture in there.
I just got done soaking the cams in rust remover. Still a little pitting on the gears.
Need to get the crank back in line. The end of the pinion shaft is .006 out. Need to split the cases, get the rust off the crank and get it trued. Need to hone the pits out of one cylinder and see if I need to go over size or not. Need to lap the valves. Looks like that was never done...Need to lightly smooth the heads and jugs where they meet so I don't get leaks. Then I can start assembly.
Correct me if I'm wrong. I think I could use a brass wire brush on the gear teeth faces to remove more of the rust without creating more damage. Sound right? I'm hoping to avoid getting new cams. For awhile anyway while I get the bike sorted out. The rust is minimal on the gears but it is there and is leaving a little pitting.
I tend to do "overkill" sometimes working on stuff. So I'm trying to not go overboard on time and money getting stuff perfect. It's not a "points bike".

[DCoul]

I've got the tranny apart and new cluster gear, seals, getting ready to assemble. I have the technical manuals for 3 speeds, but not a manual with reverse gear. Can anyone point me to the information on assembling a 3 speed with reverse, or, do I just leave out the third gear. I have it all disassembled right now. Leaving out the 3rd gear as Clutchgear says, does that change any tolerances?

[Rubone]

Unless you want reverse for some reason the idler gear and reverse gear can be left out. There is a factory spacer to replace the reverse gear on the shaft. It will be shown in the three speed book.

[RCamp]

If you don't have the spacer, and don't want to buy one, just leave out the idler gear.

[DCoul]

Great. Thank you guys.
This was in the bottom of my tranny case. Don't see that it goes anywhere. Anyone recognize it. It's brass and 5/8 square.
image.jpg

[RCamp]

Not sure what the brass part is, but it doesn't belong in your transmission.

[DCoul]

I guess that's why it's not in parts. Glad I took the tranny apart.