VL chain oiler - can I plug it off ?

[Keith]

Good morning all,

After 3 years of restoration, I took my 1930 VL for its first ride yesterday.

One of the first things I noticed was the amount of oil leaking out the primary after I was done, which I attribute to the chain oiler. I really don't have any need to have assistance oiling a chain, so would like to address that.

My question around this, does the chain oiler serve any other purpose - i.e. as a pressure relief for the oil pump, or is there any other reason why I shouldn't block it off

Any advice is appreciated, as I don't want to damage anything

Regards

Keith

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Keith, the chain oiler was a big advance in 1930 for the dirt roads of the time, but today you should get enough oil mist from the breather system. It's OK to block off that little copper pigtail that runs from the oil pump to the breather pocket. A ball bearing under one end, or a blob of solder will do it. You may find oil building up in the crankcases with the oil pump at factory settings. This is probably because we use oil rings on the modern pistons and burn less oil. Keep draining the crankcase oil after every ride, and trim the pump to keep about 6 ounces in the cases.

[Keith]

Dear Keith, the chain oiler was a big advance in 1930 for the dirt roads of the time, but today you should get enough oil mist from the breather system. It's OK to block off that little copper pigtail that runs from the oil pump to the breather pocket. A ball bearing under one end, or a blob of solder will do it. You may find oil building up in the crankcases with the oil pump at factory settings. This is probably because we use oil rings on the modern pistons and burn less oil. Keep draining the crankcase oil after every ride, and trim the pump to keep about 6 ounces in the cases.

Thank you Steve,

I appreciate the information, and will block off the little pigtail also check what is being put into the crank cases, and adjust the pump accordingly,

Regards

Keith

[H3loJo3]

I am new to these old bikes and having the same issue on my 34VD.

by " Little copper pigtail" are we talking about the breather pipe that threads into the bottom of the 34 oil pump and routes over the exhaust through the lower inner primary and mists oil onto the primary chain?

Thanks.
Joe

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Joe, no, you have the later style oil pump which tends to be oilier than the early ones. Adjustment details are in my VL Restoration Book. Copies with Replicant Metals or Harbor Vintage.

[H3loJo3]

Thanks Steve. I do have your signed book and it has been instrumental. I will take a look and see what I have missed.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Joe, the set-up is important - the oil pump just wide open at full throttle. Also make sure the hand pump check valve is not slowly passing oil into the crankcases. The VLs were not fitted with piston oil rings so used more oil at the factory pump settings than today. Trim the pump until you leave and arrive back with about 6 ounces/150 ml of oil in the cases. You can drain and measure quite a bit of oil before getting it right.

[H3loJo3]

Thanks Steve.
I have checked the hand pump check valve and it is holding well.

As per the Riders hand book,
I have removed all shims, only one thick washer on screw 4 on the mechanical oil pump on page 9&10.

On pg 27 "adjusting throttle, oil pump, and spark controls" I have adjusted the control arm to about 1/3 of its travel.
I'll rise it soon and measure crank case oil.

Appreciate the help.
Joe

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Joe, that sounds a bit brutal. There is a more/less marker on the oil pump and I would start about 1/8"/3 mm on the less side of the factory markings and not remove all the control shims. But you can switch off the chain oiler by screwing in the tapered control at the bottom of the pump which sticks out to the right. I wouldn't tinker wirh the control arm, just set it very nearly wide open at full throttle.

[H3loJo3]

Steve,
thank you. I don't want to be brutal. Cause no harm on this old girl as I care for her for my time and pass her along after I hope years of enjoyment. I have not ridden it at the settings I noted above.

I am about 1/8" on the less side of the factory setting.
My terminology may be incorrect as to the shims. Please correct me where I am wrong.
The shims I was referring to are the thin, .002" washers under screw 2 for low and moderate speeds as depicted on page 9 of the riders handbook.
I have no thin shims or washers. Only the thicker, heavy, washer under screw 2.

I will adjust the control arm 1 on the same page, back to within a trifle of the stop.

The chain oiler is the problem. Messing up the Coble stones with a few feet of small stream and drips before I can get a drip pan under it.

I have only the thick washer under screw 4 on page 9 of the riders handbook. I believe this is the tapered control you noted above. I was reluctant to remove the last washer.
If I understand you, and the book correctly, removing the last washer on this screw only will solve my very lubricated chain problem.

Thanks again.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Joe, yes, that screw 4 is for the chain oiler. You will find a single 0201 washer under the screw head will just switch off the chain oiler without damaging the oil pump seat. Now drain the crankcases into a measuring cup and check the volume. Close the drain valve, put three hand pumps of oil in the cases, drain and measure again. Close the drain again, three more hand pumps, go for a run and then drain the cases into a measuring cup on your return. You should now have the information to see what needs to be done to finish setting up the oil pump.

[H3loJo3]

Good morning Steve,
makes sense. I have notes from an earlier reply where you gave similar instructions about measuring oil.

I appreciate you.