U, ul, ulh, uh?

[Vintage ride]

I'm making the decision on what size of flathead to start building. Could i get some facts and suggestions from you all out to help me decide on what year and size of flatty to start hunting down parts?

[Chris Haynes]

All of the basic parts are the same. H cylinders have a larger bore.

[T. Cotten]

Golly Vintage ride,

If your resources let you shop around, rather than the machine find you, (like us common Folk),...
then your question really is: "Which one best preserves my investment"?

You can't go wrong with any BT Flatty.

But expect a lot more investment.


....Cotten

[Steve Slocombe]

Don't forget the 1930-36 VL Big Twin flatheads if you're looking for another great bike. On the U series bikes that ran 1937-48, the ULH is the 80 cubic inch version that ran only 1937-41. It has the same 4.25" stroke as the 74s, but a wider bore and cylinders with casting numbers 120-37 and 120-371. It has the high compression heads. The UH is also an eighty, with medium compression heads, used for sidecars and some police bikes and made over the same period. The UL is a 1937-48 high compression 74 and the U a medium compression solo or sidecar bike over the same period. These have 120-38 and 120-381 cylinder casting numbers in the cylinders, except for 1937. The most produced year is 1937, with military sidecar bikes made in WW2 and a mild resurgence in production 1945-48. The general problem today is that these bikes are seen as knuckleheads with the wrong motor. You can see bare U series flathead motors for sale because people are buying complete bikes, fitting knuck motors, and turning about $20k profit. Let's stop them doing it by buying and preserving those great riding bikes!

[Vintage ride]

Thanks for the info Steve.
I'll look into the VL's as well. I wonder why the guy didn't mention the VL's? I'm looking for a year that won't costs me alot of upfront cash. Basically I'll be looking for a year of bike that is less sought after and i can still make it my everyday rider. I'm all about stopping those who are interestedin turning a profit with these old bikes. Did you say 1937 would be a good year to seek out? I'd love to have an 80", but they only produced them for a short period of time so i'm gussing they will demand a high dollar? I'm ok with post war bikes as well, but to be honest I'd love to my hands on something in the 30's due to it looking more primative. However, beggers can't be choosers, so I'd be happy with any Flathead at this point. I could care less about rarety as i'm not in it for the value at the end of the day, i'm in it to own and ride a bike with a story. Any personal advice on what years might be less expensive to get into?

[Rubone]

Despite '37 being high production I would stay far away from one. Even though most engine components (save for cylinders) are fairly common, everything else is not, on any of the pre '40 models. The least expensive are likely the '47 and '48 models due to the OHVs of the same time period having been made in large numbers and most bits interchanging.

[Chris Haynes]

I'm looking for a year that won't costs me alot of upfront cash.

There is no such thing.

[Steve Slocombe]

Well, 1930 and 1931 are the most produced VL models, before the Great Depression really started to bite, with about 10,000 built in '30 and 7,000 in '31. You still see them around as basket cases and, if you're building a rider, you don't need to worry about the one-year parts for 1930 or the front fender, and can bodge the dash function with a couple of light switches. You've got an easy to restore good everyday rider with that 74 cubic inch motor that pulls in the mid range and is 220 pounds lighter than a Heritage Softail Classic. Freshly restored bobbers are out there around $20k and more or less complete bikes in the $10-15k range, for now. I'm sure we saw the Winners Circle 1930 and '36 VLs on eBay last month at $58.5 k and $69.5 K, so buy now while stocks last!