New purchase of a H-D WLD

[FUUN063]

Hello, all. First post in a long time here. Been lurking and very busy. In my travels this weekend, I stumbled across an old H-D WLD bobber with newer forks, etc. I would like to know more about it, but more an Indian person. I decided it was time to dive into older Harley's, so here is an attempt. It may be a candidate for a restoration, so I would like all the info you all know such as acquisition of proper fenders (are they exactly the same as other WLA or WLC fenders), front springer forks (are they the same as WLA or WLC forks), etc. This bike has the 1 1/4" Linkert stamped with an Army style M88 carb. But, what I see is that some (or all) 1941 WLD's used the M51. Is the M88 carb correct or simply replaced with an Army M88. Or, am I wrong on both accounts because there is simply not enough info out there about these war time civilian bikes as most info is about the WLA's and/or WLC's. Oh, yeah, I believe that the front fork assembly now on this bike is mid to late '60's Sportster. The headlight is a Guide brand. Other stuff of interest for originality to me would include the proper headlight, seat, rear taillight, is the mag proper or do I need a handlebar operated distributor, etc. Thanks in advance to any and all information or comments.








Leland

[sirhrmechanic]

Leland... You are a BRAVE soul! Of course, the bass-boat metalflake pink paint may grow on you.

Seriously, looks like you have a good core. And please, for the love of all things holy, make that bike whole again. Because... it needs your love!

Congrats and keep us in the loop as you restore it.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[Rubone]

Leland,
Forget WLA/WLC thinking. A 41WLD is a standard civilian bike (Sport Solo) and has nothing to do with military models. All the major parts are the same as other '41-'46 civilian models. The forks on the bike are K-Model. the fork cowbells are from '52-'53. The headlight is also K-Model of the same era (note the signal lights down low in the back). The tanks on your bike are '47-'50 WL. The magneto was a competition item and the transmission in it has a narrow clutch and primary on it so may be set up as WR spec. Rear rim is '70s Sportster. Seat is K, carb is military origin but who knows what is inside. seat appears to be H-D lightweight (165, Hummer, etc). The cylinders do not appear to be the correct WLD type, likely the single most expensive part to find.
A '41 is NOT considered a wartime bike as we were not yet at war when they were built. They had lots of flashy chrome and accessories. Even Early '42 models were not yet affected by war restrictions. '41 production began in fall of '40 and ended in July/August of '41. Production for the war effort was not curtailed until Jan of '42. I have several bikes in that era.
Robbie
'40EL, '41 WLDR, '41EL, '42WLD, '42FL, '44UL civilian Police w/sc, etc, etc...

[FUUN063]

Thanks for the responses so far. Robbie, it seems that basically what I have here is a parts bike from many different years and very few (cases, possibly frame) from a WLD and the rest whatever would make it go. This may change things for me as far as making it back correct in the '41 WLD venue. I do understand that this bike is a civilian model and was different than the military models, however, I was hoping that many or all of the tins would be the same as the military models. Alas, it may remain a chopped bobber. Further, the numbers at the base of the cylinders are the same and appear to be "120 36", "120 301"?. I have also included a pic of the magneto ID tag, too. Any indication of what this may be? Any suggested books about this bike(s)? I am presently bidding on a book about 45's on Ebay to fill in the voids. Thanks again.





Leland

[Robert Luland]

Leland, that bike is really cool just the way it is. One coat of rattle can flat black and your good to go. Bob L

[Hollywood]

The tanks are 47, 48 WR Racing tanks. The Mag is a WICO WR racing Mag. The fact the trans has a narrow clutch indicates that that too could be WR racing trans. Also the headlight may have just been bolted on for some reason but there is no battery box and the generator is blocked off (more racing indications). The frame looks like 47 to me as well. (3 bolt clutch cable).

[Rubone]

Those cylinders are casting numbers common to standard 45 or early WLDR types. The WLD,WLDR, and WR cylinders are marked 120-39 and 120-391 and all share a large fin profile. The fins almost protrude beyond the head edge. As stated that is a WR magneto.
Without seeing the inside of the engine it is unknown to what extent it is modified.
The alloy front rim was first used on Sportsters in 1960.
Only tin bits such as chain guards, headlight, and battery box are shared with military bikes. Tanks, fenders, taillights, etc, differ.
Fun pile of bits but not much to work with for a restoration project (although a 41WLD is cosmetically identical to a base model 45), but it is a cool pile for a street racer/bar hopper type of bike.

[FUUN063]

Well, I have actually had this thing running, but not very well. Carburetor adjustment needles really don't affect the operation much which is high running with almost no idle slow-down. I took the carburetor off, an M88 Linkert, and took it all apart. I cleaned every part of it and put on some new gaskets/seals as most of the parts look really nice. Float level is correct, I guess at about 1/4" above the bowl edge when flipped upside down. Seat seems to be shutting off fuel and operational as well. I looked inside the intake manifold and was surprised to see the entire interior having a mirror like polish! This bike must really be set up for the track or something. Also, when having the carburetor off and apart, I noticed something bazaar, the throttle arm (clamps to the throttle shaft) seems to be made upside down because the offset is towards the carburetor body (downwards) instead of up and away from the body to accept a linkage over the top for clearance. In other words, there was no idle adjustment screw against the brass body stop as normal, but in fact the screw hit the other side for minute adjustment of the top end! Hmmmmm, interesting. Anyway, I put it back on and no change with the idle adjustment mixture. Yes, I started out with a somewhat "rich" setting of 2 turns and 5 turns, respectively, but I never even had a "rich" setting to start with. I am suspecting that there is an intake manifold leak, but that is yet to be determined as I have to repair a struggling shop furnace.






Leland

[T. Cotten]

Leland!

You can diagnose vacuum leaks easily, and without risk, with bubbles: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

Let us know how it goes,

....Cotten
PS: Ordinarily the bowl should be indexed with the floatvalve on the other side, close to the choke mechanism. The offset for the float in the manuals will not work otherwise.
You will probably find the float itself to be an issue as well.

[FUUN063]

Yes, and thanks Cotten. I have since cleaned and adjusted the carburetor and moved the bowl around so that the valve is on the other side, making the outlet closer to the fuel tank outlet. Also, it makes more room for clearance around that pesky hand shifter linkage!


Leland

[Rubone]

The linkage appears to be set up for a very slow throttle action. And the reversed stop to allow the throttle plate to be adjusted to full open and no more. Period attempts at fine throttle control at near wide open positions. Again pointing to its use as a track bike. The modified M88 and small intake tracts point to short track use...

[FUUN063]

Well, tonight in the shop brought on a simple intake manifold pressure test using only a few pounds of pressure on a homemade block off plate. I got tons of bubbles, as I suspected, so off it came.






I cleaned up the threads a bit and inspected the brass ring seals. They appeared good, very tight with no movement or nicks and I thought it a bit unusual that the nuts came off easily as if not tightened down enough, so put on some sealer (for testing purposes only to make sure this was the problem) and put everything back together.







I got no real change in the adjustment of the carburetor needles, but it is much easier to start now. A simple kick or two brings it to life, but no adjustment still. Also, it sounds as if it could use a top end valve job as it back fires a little and I can hear some "popping" in the exhaust once in a while. I may stop here for now, now that it's all together as I need the lift for another project coming in Tuesday. However, I did ride it briefly and it was something else!! About an inch of ice hear makes for a scary trip around, I'll tell you what!!


Leland

[sirhrmechanic]

Leland:

Unless the rough idle is a very aggressive cam?

Given that this machine appears to be set up for racing... I am tempted to rescind my earlier thoughts about this bike being a cry for restoration. Before doing that... do some research. See if you can figure out whether/where it has a racing history. Because everything folks have said above (and the package itself) sure look like it has a racing history. And the world needs more preserved or 'saved' racing bikes... than it needs picture perfect WLD's with full restorations.

If it raced... someone has to know when/where and have photos. Any old flat or dirt tracks in the area where you bought it? Any old racers? Old MC speed shops? Someone probably knows that background on that machine.

Just some thoughts. I've been fascinated by the details you are unearthing...

Cheers,

Sirhr

[T. Cotten]

Leland!

Please beware that there can be leaks not only at the seals, but between the nipple inserts and the castings. Since the nuts cover this seam the nipples can only be tested separately with large stopper or cork. You may also want to thin your solution a bit so that the smallest fissures will slowly appear as blisters of fine bubbles. The rivets are prone to microleaks, so you will want to bump it to the maximum of 15psi for certainty.

Good luck!

.....Cotten

[FUUN063]

Well, as far as restoring this bike to a WLD, I think I have decided against it for the reasons listed just above=racing machine. And, I live in between Marion, IN and Wabash, IN, there is plenty of old racing track and related around here. This bike, I was told, was from the Fairmount, IN area, found in a barn last year and purchased from an estate sale by the owner before me. He did nothing with it and then put it up for sale on Facebook. A friend of mine knew him and saw it was for sale, so he told me about it. As far as the nipples and leaking, I will have to test that later with a reverse set up through the spark plug hole, but for now, I am going to ask around for some history. I do know that there was at least one track in Marion, Converse, Fairmount, etc. I remember when I was a kid, I lived next to the track in Converse and have watched a race or three way back then. I have since put the front fender on and it looks like many of the racers on the internet, so I think it deserves at least a rest while searching. Thanks all who have responded.

Leland