32VL Coil hitting inter primary

[50Panhead]

The Coil is pushing the inter primary 1/4 to 3/8 inch out. So much its up against the clutch. Take a look at these photos and tell me what I have wrong.
The coil and mounting hardware are from Colony.
I can gain some if I modify the mounting hardware.
The late photo with the outer cover loosely in place, and in the circled area, Is the inter cover supposed to lap over on the outside of outer?
100_7412a.jpg100_7413a.jpg100_7415a.jpg

Thanks
Herman

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Herman, is that a 1936 one piece inner primary? Maybe you need the two piece inner primary with the chainguard clutch plate. The Colony mounting kit contains the 1728-30 backing plate not used after about 1932. The coil then bolts direct to the seat post tube and saves a little space. There is a one-year 1936 rear footboard support rod nut to hold out the inner primary. If you've used the shorter front nut then the inner primary could sag back and touch the coil. Your rear engine mounting bolts are upside down, all have the nuts at the top. And the 1928/9 JD clutch operating lever will cause you grief as the outside end is not long enough to clear the VL clutch.

[50Panhead]

Steve Its a two piece inner primary. The transmission does not have chainguard. I only have the two pieces, bolted to the motor with three screws. The rear footboard support passes through a half round hole split between the top and bottom. The rear end of the inner primary free floats and only appears to be supported by the outer primary.
I'll work on the coil mount if not eliminating it all together. I hope this will give room for the clutch rod to operate. It apparently worked before.

My dad had a VLD long before I was born. That is the main reason the VL was on my bucket list of bikes to own and ride. Too bad I did not get this bike 20 years ago when he was still alive. I would not be on here asking all these questions.
Thanks again
Herman

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Herman, you need the 1932-35 chainguard clutch plate at the rear to steady the inner primary. This needs the cast ear at the front of the gearbox to be intact, and it is often seen busted by chain breaks. If the ear is intact no problem, just fit the chainguard clutch plate. If the ear is busted it can be repaired, or you can cut it right off to simulate the 1936 gearbox and use the one piece inner primary. The dust plate on the countershaft sprocket will then also need replacing with the smaller 1936 style. If you are not building a points bike for judging, then consider leaving off the inner primary altogether. Our modern roads are not as dusty as the unpaved ones from the 1930s.

[50Panhead]

Steve
Thanks for all the help. I removed the coil hardware and mounted the coil directly to to the frame. That give me ample room for everything including the clutch rod. I will look into chain guard plate.


Thanks Herman

[don]

I have the same Colony coil kit for my 31 and the U-bolt will not swallow the frame, it is to narrow. Did you have this problem?

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Don, the parts book lists two U-bolts, 1723-30 and 1723-29 for the coil fixings. These have different widths and different threads. I suspect the small twin with the lighter frame tube used 2 x 1723-29, the narrow one, while the VL used the wider 1723-30 at least at the bottom where the frame is reinforced. As often, no proof of this, and even original bikes have had the coils removed or replaced.

[don]

I knew this was the problem, I was just hoping they had packaged the wrong u-bolt. Well thanks for the confirmation and I will look for a 1723-30. Do you have one Steve?

[50Panhead]

I have the same Colony coil kit for my 31 and the U-bolt will not swallow the frame, it is to narrow. Did you have this problem?

Don Yes I had the same problem. I modified one of my U- Bolts to work. I'm finding Colony parts are sometimes not quite right.

[Steve Slocombe]

1723-30 is also the U-bolt used to hold the VL jiffy stand to the frame, so you might find it this way.