VL Front Brake

[RPjr]

Is there anything that will make the front brake on a VL work better. I have already ground the drum flat and round, bushed the cam, and arced the linings, and I still feel like dragging my feet to help out stopping. Been told that the stamped steel drum is the problem [expands] would making a steel ring to go on the outside of the drum help?

[bselph]

I have done the same as you. It is not much better and I have just learned to live with it. I plan ahead for braking and pray!

[Steve Slocombe]

All the early Harley front brakes are pretty puny, as they did not want you to skid on the unpaved roads of the time. The best front brake is on my sprinter, where it has been used hard and often in stopping after quarter miling. When breaking in new bikes I put the operating lever in the sidecar position for more leverage, then brake fairly hard every mile or so to get the glaze off the new linings and start to bed them in. They definitely improve with use. Correct cable adjustment and lubrication also helps. And as Bob says it certainly improves your powers of concentration and anticipation.

[RPjr]

vl brake

Steve, been riding the bike for 20+ years, been in the side car hole the whole time, I realize that the drum is smaller and really wondering about the expansion of the drum and the addition of ring around the outside of the drum along with some kind of a high friction brake lining material. Might make it work just a little bit better. If you haven't tried something like that I might try this winter.

[Steve Slocombe]

I am not a big fan of the expansion theory, so would go for the high friction linings first. These drum brakes fade after 3 or 4 hard applications, so coming down long hills in second gear is prudent back-up. The back brake was designed to be the main one, and can usually lock up the wheel easily. The 1935/6 brake side covers with the adjustable brake shoe pivot stud were said to help get both brake shoes in maximum contact with the drum, so might be worth considering if you have an earlier bike. The earlier brake side covers can be converted by drilling out the fixed pivot stud if necessary.

[RPjr]

Thanks for your thoughts Steve, think I will try MacMaster Carr, they have high friction brake shoe lining.

[johnnyfire]

Speaking of brakes,does anyone have a technique to separate the backing plate from a drum on a brake that has sat for years and is rusty?Its tempting to pry,but I know what that leads to.Thanks Johnny

[skidshoe]

My question with the VL front brake I got with my basket is with the shackle stud(4137-30) on the backing plate. Mine has been spot welded to the backing plate on the inner side. I've seen backing plates with no studs where this hole looks somewhat oblong. Would this be the reason they spot welded the stud? I can't reason why you would need this stud to float. I've also looked at one we have in a bin of parts and it appears to float, or maybe is just worn out. And what's the reason for the flattened part on the inner side of the stud? Any help? Thanks.

[Steve Slocombe]

The 4137-30 stud is always fixed as it is connected to the brake anchor shackle. It is rivetted to the side plate over a thick washer. I guess the flat in the stud is to locate over that special washer. When the stud is really worn loose you can see it welded to the inside of the brake side cover to stop it moving. The stud I'm referring to is 4118-35 at the other end of the brake shoes and used 1935/6 on the VL. This has flats on the side which move a little in an oval slot, then are secured by a ribbed plate, nut and lock washer. The idea is to slacken the nut, apply the brake, then re-tighten the nut with the brake shoes tight against the drum. Warning: I found out earlier this year the shoes can self-actuate and lock the wheel if you forget to tighten up the nut on the adjustable brake show pivot stud.

[skidshoe]

Thanks, Steve. I suppose a few good tack welds will be fine then. Thanks for clarifying the back brake as well.