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  • VL Neck Lock Removal

    I am attempting/wanting to remove my neck lock ('31 VL Frame) to clean the lock or replace and remove the steering lock pin. Is there one or two pins securing the lock cylinder in place? I think I've identified one locking pin (see arrow in attached pic). What size drill bit is suggested for drilling out the pin, what was the pin made of and how long were the original pins? Any suggested cautions?
    Thanks,
    William
    Attached Files
    William Edwards, AMCA #10035

    Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
    http://www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com/

  • #2
    I will be following this as I want to do the same on my 33VC.
    Bob Selph
    1933VC/1934LT Sidecar
    1940 Sport Scout
    AMCA#15215

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    • #3
      I had to replace the neck lock on my frame (used frame with no keys).
      I drilled out most of the lock, pulled he rest out with needle nose pliers, used a pin punch to knock the pin to where the lock was and pulled it out from the inside.
      The replacement lock and keys came with a pin, the spring and small lock rod.
      Once the lock was replaced and oriented correctly - I tapped the pin in place.
      Not sure if this helps - but it worked for me.

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      • #4
        I did basically the same as hmccorkl did. Some people suggested removing the pin first with a small dab of tig weld on it then sliding the lock mechanism out. That wasn't going to happen. My lock was a mess to begin with so I just started knocking pieces out of it with a small pin punch until the whole thing fell apart. I believe they are made of some cast white metal or something similar as it broke apart quite easily. Then I was able to tap the pin inward to the bore. Once it was all out I was able to clean up the bore really nice and install a fresh unit. The actual lock pin came out of the bottom without much fight with a pair of pliers after the lock was removed.

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        • #5
          Thanks guys. I have a key and hoped to salvage the lock/cylinder. I've seen NOS locks on ebay. Never noticed a spring in any of the listings. Anyone have a pic of the spring they can share? Thanks!
          William Edwards, AMCA #10035

          Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
          http://www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            You are going to be hard pressed to find a lock that replaces the stock VL lock. Almost everyone one I have seen is the later style pan head lock with a C or H in the lock code. If you don't care if it is original then bash away. Those VL locks only went to 36 and then the MoCo dropped the lock for the entire knuckle years and started it again in 48 and it changed in 55 to the one with the spring loaded stainless key slot cover. Good luck with whatever you do!

            Tom (Rollo) Hardy
            AMCA # 12766

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            • #7
              Thanks for the insight Tom! I have a Pan lock cylinder. Hoping it would be a fall back if I had to drill the VL lock out!
              William Edwards, AMCA #10035

              Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
              http://www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com/

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by wideglide38 View Post
                Thanks for the insight Tom! I have a Pan lock cylinder. Hoping it would be a fall back if I had to drill the VL lock out!
                Hi.
                My experience has been with Pan frames, but I am fairly sure that the locks in V and W frames are fitted the same.
                The steering lock is held in with one stainless roll pin.
                You will need a pack of (new) 3/32 drill bits and some type of coolant / lubricant.
                From memory, the roll pin used to secure the lock is about an 1/8 inch long, and is nestled into the outer drum of the lock to stop it rotating.

                Stop drilling as soon as you see alloy swarf, or you will drill right through the barrel and into the tumblers.
                When you get the roll pin drilled out, the lock will still be hard to remove as it is fitted in the hole as a soft ( interference fit ).
                The best method I have found ( most passive ) is to use an old Briggs & Stratton key connected to a very small slide hammer.
                Fit the key, fully into the lock and turn slightly so that the key catches under the tumblers, and pull it out with light taps of the slide hammer.
                If you do a good job of removal, you can then take the lock to a Lock smith and get it cleaned and re tumbled to suit any original key you can find.
                You can purchase 3/32" stainless roll pins, and 3/8" stainless compression springs from any bearing shop. The spring is 3/8" long.
                Steve Little
                Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
                Australia.
                AMCA member 1950

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                • #9
                  Hi Steve, Thanks for very useful info! Will give this try first before drilling cylinder out. William
                  William Edwards, AMCA #10035

                  Attend the 2019 Southern National Meet at Denton Farmpark, NC, 17-18 May 2019
                  http://www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com/

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                  • #10
                    Isnt there anyway of making a key to fit, if you dont have a key?

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                    • #11
                      Dear Chris, it's a Briggs and Stratton lock, and you can get keys cut from the code letters visible on the outside. These are of the style B2 23. There are advertisers in the AMCA magazine who provide this service.

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                      • #12
                        Alan 507-387-1373. An advertiser in the AMCA magazine.

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                        • #13
                          Any Locksmith worthy of the title can make you a key for a serviceable neck lock.
                          And, you can buy Briggs & Stratton key blanks, in the style for your era, on Ebay.
                          Gerry Lyons #607
                          http://www.37ul.com/
                          http://flatheadownersgroup.com/

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