WL engine sprocket recomendations.

[bob43wlc]

If you bolted the motor down on top of the paint you applied to the frame -- squashed the paint -- then tightened up the engine mounting bolts and castle nuts and cotter pins, they're probably loose. Motor mounts have to be bare metal, as vibration quickly pulverizes a layer of paint and you end up with a gap. And 250 miles is about the time it takes. Don't ask me how I learned that!

Hi Sarge, it's Bob here.......This explanation really make sense. But this is not the problem since I cleaned the motor mounts prior to engine installation. I'll check all the bolts and nuts during my next inspection. The clutch will also come down for a good claning and reajustment. Thank you all for your input and sorry for the hijack.

[Sargehere]

If you bolted the motor down on top of the paint you applied to the frame -- squashed the paint -- then tightened up the engine mounting bolts and castle nuts and cotter pins, they're probably loose. Motor mounts have to be bare metal, as vibration quickly pulverizes a layer of paint and you end up with a gap. And 250 miles is about the time it takes. Don't ask me how I learned that!

[bob43wlc]

With you or the engine? Seriously start with making sure all engine and transmission mounting bolts and nuts are tight, then make sure primary chain is not dry. Put in clutch at speed and let motor idle to see if vibration goes away. With that gear the rpm's are not that high at 55. How long ago did anyone check rod side shake? Look for simple first then look deeper. Shelby

Engine only has 250 miles on it. I'll check the mounting bolts of trans and engine. Thank you.

[shelbyinparadise]

With you or the engine? Seriously start with making sure all engine and transmission mounting bolts and nuts are tight, then make sure primary chain is not dry. Put in clutch at speed and let motor idle to see if vibration goes away. With that gear the rpm's are not that high at 55. How long ago did anyone check rod side shake? Look for simple first then look deeper. Shelby

[bob43wlc]

I got a 33T on the engine and the bike is vibrating a lot at 55mph. What could be wrong with me?

[shelbyinparadise]

What has been said is true, there is a little more clutch slipping for a smooth start with 33 but if you are truly going to ride without the stop and go, you will be happy with the 33 for flat land riding and good gas mileage. Give it a good test before changing back. Shelby

[Rattlecan]

Cool, thanks for the info guys. I'm going to try a 33 on the flat roads here in Iowa but I'm guessing I will be cutting it back to a 31.

[Rubone]

I run a 31 on my '47 WL. Used to run a 33 but changed so as not to have to slip the clutch so much on takeoff. It cruises happily at 55 and will run close to 75 flat out at 7000ft.

[Rattlecan]

Thanks Shelby, Most of my riding on this bike will be back roads out in the country, not much for hills in Iowa. Not much in town use either. Have you ever run a 33 tooth?

[shelbyinparadise]

It really depends on how and where you ride. If you live in a busy town with stop and go traffic, stay with a 30 tooth, the standard WLA sprocket. that will be easy on clutch and transmission. On the other hand if highway driving is the main use a 31 or 32 will work well on basically flat driving using M-41. Keeping RPM's down will increase motor and transmission life. H-D made up to 34 teeth for strong motors. Shelby

[Rattlecan]

Just wondering what you guys are using for engine sprockets on your WL's for good all around use? Not looking to break any land speed records but would like to cruise comfortably at 55 mph if possible. But on the other hand don't want to have to lug the engine at low speeds either.