WAY Too much oil in primary cover problem

[Jim]

If all else fails with the pump, check crank case check valve. May be stuck.

RPjr, If you are talking about the Check Valve that is in the bottom of the Oil Tank, then yes; I already determined that is not leaking oil.

Yesterday we were out all day. So,today I was going to take it out for about a 15-20 mile ride. However, before I left I wanted to pull off the primary cover to remove any oil that was already in it from past riding (this is my main complaint for this post). I wiped out all the oil so I could see how much oil would end up there after a ride since I had removed all the thin washers from under the Chain Oiler Adj. screw. I had measured what I drained and wiped out the oil from the primary cover; and there was about 2 oz (59 ml) of oil in it. However... before I could get the bike outside and start it up, it began to rain; and I do not ride in the rain if I don't have too. So... until some nicer weather? This is put on HOLD.

By the way... I DO NOT have the inner primary covers for this bike..... Let me ask this silly question... can oil come out of those threaded "holes" where the inner primary cover screws go?

[RPjr]

No Jim, the one in the cam chest.

[Steve Slocombe]

Jim, that's the 504-34 flutter valve put in around engine number 1200 in 1934. As far as I can see it is meant to suck oil back into the crankcases from that pocket in the cam cover. Often the valve disc is blown out. There should also be wire mesh round this valve, held in by a special clip. Neither of these last two parts are in the parts books. But let's see how your bike rides before we start pulling down the engine...

[Jim]

OK... I was able to go out for a 20 mile ride (actually 2 separate ones). When I got back from the first one I had about a "Cap" full of oil in the primary cover. I also drained the oil from the crankcase and had the same amount of oil in it as when I left (3 1/2 pumps which gives me a little over 5 oz of oil. Then, I removed the FAT washer under the oiler chain screw and I replaced that with 3 thin washers which was about half the thickness, and went for the second ride. I went a 'different route' but it was still about the same length of a ride. When I got home I checked the oil in the primary and had about 3/4 cap of oil from that. The Crankcase had the same 5 oz of oil drain out of it. I also removed 2 more thin washers and left 1 thin washer under the chain oiler screw. Then I noticed there was a drip coming from behind the engine sprocket. This dripped for a couple minutes and then stopped. So, I suppose that is where some of my oil is coming from too. I put the primary cover back on and put the bike away as it started to rain again, but I "think" I am done with the over oiling part of it! Seems to be fine now. Runs and idles really good.

The VLH starts good cold, but Now I have to figure out how to start it when "hot". After my first ride, I had a hard time starting it up; about 15 min. after my ride and I shut it down it took 10-15 kicks to start it. I also had it quit on me (yeah, I stalled it) at a red light and had to push it over to the side of the road to put the stand down so I could kick it. It took 6-7 kicks to get it started. My '30 VL will start back up first kick when that is hot. Maybe I need to hold the throttle OPEN some when kicking HOT. Is this a carb adjustment? I don't want to fool around with that because it does run good right now.

I see the screen in one of the pics of my right side with the cover removed. However, I cannot figure out what happened to the add photo button. Anyway, I know what clip and screen you're talking about.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Jim, yes I forgot the chain lubricating bushing sticking out of the left crankcase under the sprocket. Harley says it is supposed to have 0.007" clearance round the shaft. I've made new ones if you get desperate enough. I also find hot VLs harder to start than cold, and the Owners Handbook recommends no choke and a little throttle. If it doesn't start right away, then shutting off the fuel and opening the throttle wide often works.

[Jim]

Thanks Steve, I can't recall if I replaced that bushing when I worked on the engine back in the early 90s. I will keep that bushing in mind if it gets worse. I know that is why they have that drain hole in the back, but back in "those days" with dirt roads, it was no big deal. Keeps the dust down! HAHA! But, with the chain oiler "tube" not pumping out as much as it was, this will be a BIG help.

I will try some different methods starting it when HOT. Remember, I have the wrong carb on it anyway and that may be at least 50% of my problem. Once I get the method down, it will get easier.