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47 UL steering bearing cup removal

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  • 47 UL steering bearing cup removal

    Hi,

    I have a 47 UL which i have stripped down to the frame for a complete rebuild. I have everything off the frame save for the bearing cups in the steering head.

    They look like they may be the original ones. At some point the frame has been repainted with them in situ

    The top one isnt too bad but the bottom one is badly worn and needs to come out so i plan to replace both while i'm able.

    Currently i cant figure out a way to get them out. It looks like they should be driven out and once one is out i imagine the second one is easier.

    Any tips or help on how to get them out and and keep the frame in good condition would be much appreciated

    Thank you

    Martin - from the UK

  • #2
    Slide a drift punch or similar thru the neck to catch the part of the cup which is inside the neck. Use your basic 2# hammer to beat them out. A few whacks one one side, then switch to the other, to avoid cocking the cup.
    VPH-D

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    • #3
      I have 2 frames that i can't get them out without trashing them. I tried heat, drift punch, blind plug puller(in which i ruined it). I'm still wondering how to get them out...
      Len. #765
      AMCA #765

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      • #4
        Len, I've had my share of tough ones. Rust man rust. Put a rubber stopper in it and fill the neck with Kroil and let sit for a couple of weeks. I made a tool for doing this many years ago. Which I've actually been looking for it since the last person posted this question here. I got the idea from an expanding mandrill I had laying on the bench. It just two halves the size of the stem hole which have groove at the top and a o-ring that holds them together. In the bottom I have a wedge with an Allen screw that goes up and screws to a 1/4" plate atop the two halves. You slide it up and expand it by tightening the set screw. You then put a pipe down the other end. Now take a hit off the beer bottle, grab that five pound lump hammer and beat that bitch like you would like to do to an ex-wife! The whole thing behind this was not just getting the cup out but getting it out so it could be reused. Bob L
        AMCA #3149
        http://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepartscompany.com

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        • #5
          Thanks Guys - looks like i'm not alone in finding this a problem

          Martin

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          • #6
            Martin,
            If you are replacing them why not just split them which will allow them to collapse into the cavity slightly and let them come out! Fiddly work with a hack saw but removes the chance of frame damage.
            Robbie
            Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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            • #7
              You can make a tool similar to the split driver type used to drive the wheel bearings races out of the hub of the Harleys from the 70's-80's if you want to save them, or use a Dremel and cut off wheel to slice them and drive them out with a punch.
              Jim D.
              Jim D

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              • #8
                You could try running a few beads with an arc or mig welder inside the tube portion of the cup. When it cools, it will practically fall out. This works great on bearings and valve seats as well.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by knuckleheadtim View Post
                  You could try running a few beads with an arc or mig welder inside the tube portion of the cup. When it cools, it will practically fall out. This works great on bearings and valve seats as well.
                  Party poper! We want the guy to at least work up a sweat for crying out loud!
                  AMCA #3149
                  http://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepartscompany.com

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                  • #10
                    Got a few ideas to try here - thanks again all those who have responded

                    Martin

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                    • #11
                      Hi,

                      Just an update - soaked the cup in penetrating oil for a couple of days and warmed it up a little but chiefly used a bigger hammer and it came out without too much sweat.

                      Just painting and rebuilding to go now!

                      I'll post some picture when i have something to show.

                      Thanks again for all the suggestions

                      Martin

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                      • #12
                        that's great new!
                        AMCA 26656

                        47EL
                        47WL

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